On 5/28/2012 7:50 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> 16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads.
>
> I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge accidentally, or if the
> next owner wants to use it for live loads and won't curse me like I'm cursing
> the PO for using 1/2" and 3/8"). But not enough to buy a router and set up a
> table to route all these boards :-)
>
> The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.
>
> Sounds like butt edges will be good enough!
If you can get 4'x4' sheets up there, then cutting T&G 4x8 sheets in
half is what I would do. Reassemble the two 4x4 into a 4x8 sheet with
the cut over a joist where you really don't need the T&G. This way you
still have T&G joints perpendicular to the joists. Also stagger the
sheets so the cuts on the same joist. Usually with 4x8 you stagger the
each sheet by 4 feet; start row with a full sheet and the next row with
a half sheet. In your case I would stagger the second row by only 16"
and the third row by 32"
Peter T.
>
> jim
>
> On May 28, 2012, at 12:02 AM, BJNoSHOV8 wrote:
>
>> What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you
> planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?
>> At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the
> questions above would help to define that. And then I thought that if you
> really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the plywood
> to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>>> The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I
> can
>>> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.
>>>
>>> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of
> the
>>> t&g edge support?
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