I didn't see the original post, but I did just that. Since the door
panels have lips on them I couldn't get a full sheet into the door, so I
cut 1/2" foam diagonally and put it in. The second 1/2" layer was put in
with the cuts not lining up.
One thing I haven't done is to replace the torsion spring on the door.
The few pounds of insulation on my 10'x12' door makes it hard to lift at
the bottom and once it is up past half way,it opens itself.
Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake David C., On 1/21/2012 10:39 PM:
> Spray foam is essentially the same thing as Gorilla Glue and that
> stuff sticks to everything, apparently forever. I have some on my
> brief case that is nearly 20 years old.
>
> Another member sent me a note that he just cut his insulation oversize
> and then bowed it go go into the door sections. I'm going to give
> that a try. As long as it's not as thick as the door sections it
> should work fine.
>
> Eric J Russell wrote:
>> I don't know if the spray can foam is much of an adhesive. Why not glue
>> it in place with latex adhesive caulking? Many foams are adversely
>> affected by solvent glues.
>>
>> Will the added thickness still allow the door to roll up?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
>> http://home.mebtel.net/~ejrussell
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> Subject: [Shop-talk] Insulating a garage door
>>
>>
>>> I have a large roll up door on my shop. It's about 12 x 12, regular
>>> sectional construction, with an opener. It's also uninsulated. I was
>>> thinking of gluing regular 1" foam board insulation (like foundation
>>> insulation) to the sections using canned spray foam like Great Stuff,
>>> rather than mechanically fastening. Comments? Does the foam stick/work
>>> at lower temps or should I wait until spring?
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--
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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