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Re: Sand-blasting and lead loading

To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sand-blasting and lead loading
From: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 19:01:31 -0400
At 09:02 AM 5/21/01 -0400, Eugene D Abbondelo wrote:
>
>Firstly, a while back there were some recommendations on pressurized
>sand-blasting units (like TIP and Eastwood) sell  Not the cabinets,
>just the portable pressurized units.  At the time I wasn't in the
>market for one, but now I am.  Does anyone remember the particular
>recommendations given?.....

Fred Marks replied, "Gene- I took the cheap way out when I bought my blaster. 
It's a 40# Central Pneumatic pressure blaster from Harbor Freight Tools.  I 
paid $74.99 on Sale and shipping was free."

I too bought the 40# blaster from HF.  I love it!!!  I also have on of HF's
plastic blasting cabinets (the $130 one).  I also love this.  Which I use
depends on what I'm blasting.  Small parts go in the cabinet, for large items
I use the pressure blaster.  I also have a syphon blaster.  The pressure 
blaster does a much better job and a lot quicker than the plain syphon gun.
I drive all the air tools from a 5hp 30 gal oil lubricated Craftsman
compressor.

As to the HF's pressure blaster,  I also agree about the bad ball valves.
One 
the handle broke off while I was assembling it.  I would make a couple of 
modifications.  Also, my dryer is missing the fitting for the drain petcock 
and I never call HF.  I really should do that one of these days and see if I 
can get just the petcock. 

I can blast for about 1 hour by regulating the sand output before I have to
refill the tank.

I would make a modification to this pressure blaster if you should get one.  
They supply a short union to connect the dryer and pressure guage to the
unit.  
Go to the hardware store an purchase a slightly longer union.  You can't get 
the guage, dryer, etc on or off with the handles attached if you don't.

A couple more comments but not about the blaster but about blasting:

1. For a frame, I wouldn't wast my time.  Blasting is very very slow work!!!
   I will send big items like that out to be blasted.  I find it very cost
   effective.  I paid $125 to have the chassis for my Bricklin blasted.  It
   would have taken me days to do it.

2. When I blast, I tie a rope diagonally across the corner of my fence.  Then
   I attach a 6mil plastic drop cloth to the rope with clothes pins.  This
   gives me a back drop for the sand to hit, and a floor to collect the sand.
   I can recover about 85% I shoot.  So 100# last quite a long time.  I scoop
   the sand up in a coffee can, and sift it through an old piece of screen 
   back into my storage bucket.  Then I fill my blaster from the storage 
   bucket. 

   I also lay a piece of cardboard or plywood on the plastic floor to keep
   from punching a hole in the plastic with the parts I'm blasting.

3. Besure to get a good hood with the replaceable lexan (or what ever it is)
   shields.  Sand will go everywhere.

Hope this helps.

John




John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire     71 Saab Sonett III
        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

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