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Re: Paint

To: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Paint
From: Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us>
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 22:33:22 -0500 (CDT)
On Thursday, 27 June 1996, John T. Blair wrote:

> For places like headlight buckets, wheel arches, inside doors, rear quarter
> panels,
> etc. I use POR-15.  It is a rust sealer and inhibitor.  You can paint over
> it for
> color if you want.  It is a gloss black, but UV (sunlight) will bleach out
> the color
> in a hurry.  For rust proofing you can't beat it.  

Got that right.  Paint right over the rust, if you like.  On my streeter, 
I sand out the rust spots, rough up the bare clean steel with sandpaper 
a bit (on the parts that are pitted, don't worry, it LIKES them that way) 
and brush on clear POR-15 (it comes in clear, silver and black.)  When I 
get around to it, I rough up the POR-15 with some 600 grit sandpaper and 
spray it with a touch-up can.  I want the rust to go away and not come 
back.  I'm not persnickity about finish.  Any car you intend to drive in 
a Minnesota winter is an appliance anyway.

> But it has a price, about $40 per quart.

Other price:  The solvent is reputed to be wildly toxic.  I use it only 
with a brush, only outside in the summer.  If you plan on spraying it, 
do so only if you are wearing a forced-fresh-air respirator.  This stuff 
is nothing to fool around with, but the results are worth the precautions.

You can't return it to the can after you have had some out, so take the 
leftovers and paint your ramps, inside your bumpers, rusty steel wheels. 
Don't bother brushing the rust off of them.  Go back years later and find 
them perfectly preserved.  The finish in clear will still look wet.  I
use a cheap foreign bristle brush and throw it away after it is hardened.

Phil Ethier

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