I've removed mine using this procedure:
1. Loosen the nut holding the round rod pedal
to the lever enough that the threads are not
exposed. 1/2" (instead of 3/8") drive
ratchets and extensions work better in later
steps.
2. Place a wooden block between the lever and
the underside of the floorboard as close to
the rod as you can get it. Make sure that
the block holds the brake pedal down from
it's fully retracted position. The purpose
of the block is to absorb the force of
hammer blows.
3. Place another nut or two of similar size to
the one loosened in step 1 into the socket
used so that the open end of the socket
can't touch the lever.
4. Put enough extensions (takes 2 12" extensions
in the case of my 57 GMC V8) to be able to
hit with a hammer.
5. Smack it hard. One solid hit should do the
job.
6. Remove the nut and take out the pedal and rod.
I don't know how you are going to shorten the rod.
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl & Becky Ham [mailto:the_hams@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 9:58 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] Brake Pedal
A question for the list members:
I recently upgraded my '56 to power brakes and would like to shorten the
stock pedal (position it closer to the floor). Took the nut off that
connects the round rod to the lever assembly (behind the firewall)going back
to the master cylinder and the rod isn't budging (haven't tried a hammer
yet). Anyone else done this? Is the pedal pressed into the lever assembly?
Any advice welcome, thanks in advance.
Carl Ham
'56 Chevy TF Stepside
Pontiac, IL
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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