Dear Frank
I really think you are courting disaster by not addressing the front brakes
adequately, even 4 cylinder cars will get the front brakes smoking hot on a
circuit with moderate usage, so unless you plan to be very gentle on the
brakes (and the road you describe is not!) please consider something better.
I refuse to build V8 engined cars without upgrading the rotors and
callipers, simply a safety issue. It sounds like a sales pitch but I can
supply a bolt on kit that we manufacture, Vented Rotor and 4 spot calliper,
the difference in stopping power is astounding.
As far as the front end is concerned, yes a heavier sway bar is the way to
go 20 or 22mm will suffice, and the coil over tube shocks and replacement
upper arm will work fine, use urethane bushings throughout, and set it up
with some negative camber, the longer lower arms are the easiest way.
With the rear suspension, why are you staying with the lever arm shockers
when you are suggesting you will put tubes on the front, there are two
alternatives, Koni do a kit for the rear, and I also can supply a gas tube
shocker conversion kit which we integrate with a tramp rod kit if you want.
The other thing you ought to consider is a panhard rod to locate the rear
axle, this will make the turns much more precise as the springs don't have
to load up laterally before you start turning. If I gather you have fitted
lowering blocks I must pass negative comment here as this approach destroys
the geometry, get the eyes of the main leafs rolled the other way and get as
much curvature back into the spring as possible, I agree you may want to
lower the car but the spring will not work if it is not curved.
I hope you have dealt with your wheels and tyres, up to 7" can be fitted
under a virtually standard car, I run a 205 x 50 x 16 tyre on a 7" rim which
gives excellent support.
I hope this helps.
Regards Adrian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Frank van Dalen
Sent: Tuesday, 13 February 2001 23:13
To: mgb-v8
Subject: Braking & handling
As I've now completed the installation of all under-the-bonnet systems (175
hp) of my '68 V8 roadster, I'm starting on brakes and suspension. I hope to
benefit from your experience. I'm aiming to build a car that will be fast
but suitable for public roads; a fast road or rally car.
Brakes: I want to be able to make a fast descent of about 6000 ft. down the
Stelvio pass in the Alps (featuring about 40 hairpins) without my brakes
fading. I've installed a servo unit to prevent knee injury but plan on using
standard disks. I 'm thinking to help cooling by omitting the dust covers.
My idea is to accept fairly high temperatures and select the brake pads to
match, rather than introduce expensive solutions like ventilated disks etc.
What type of brake pads should I use to cope with the higher temperatures?
Suggestions welcome!
Suspension:
I find that a standard MGB rolls too much when cornering; I'd like a more
direct response to steering inputs. I'm planning on using the Moss
conversion kit for front wheel suspension, with adjustable telescopic
dampers concentric with the springs, plus the thick gauge anti-roll bar. Who
has any experience with this Moss conversion kit?
On the rear axle, I'm planning on using the anti-tramp bars plus "Factory"
V8 dampers, the idea being that the stiffer anti-roll bar and dampers at the
front will take most of the rolling reaction so that I can put my foot down
harder in the curves without the inside rear spinning and me loosing
control. With the standard rear suspension, you can feel a significant
amount of lateral movement of the rear axle, which leaves you a rather vague
idea of what is really happening to the rear tyres, and you actually need to
make slight steering corrections as the drift angle of the car body changes
with the rear axle movement (I'm using the 7 leaf GT rear springs with
distance blocks, which probably doesn't help). I'd like to restrict lateral
movement with an A-frame or Panhard rod or something. I've heard that the
Moss A-frame is not too brilliant - can anyone deny this or suggest
alternative solutions?
Thanks for your time reading all of this! I realise it is not directly
related to engine installation, but I feel it's important to have a good
balance between V8 power, brakes and handling...
Frank van Dalen
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