Weren't the wing stampings changed to accommodate the Armstrong shocks? I seem
to recall that the Armstrong shocks won't clear the early wings. But my
memory's failed me before.
B
And, by the way, retapping the mounting holes to US or metric threads would
certainly weaken the structure.
B
Ed Woods
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Seim" <kingseim@earthlink.net>
To: "gunnellj tds.net" <gunnellj@tds.net>
Cc: mg-t@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 11:04:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Front Shock Bolts
The bolts are 3/8"-20 BSF.
The ones for the Armstrongs are shorter than those used for Girlings,
as Girlings had a thicked mounting base. You will need one longer one,
for the engine steady bracket. There is a round spacer, that goes on top
of the shock base for the Armstrongs, between the damper and the bracket.
Actually, either design is OK. Girlings have a cast iron body, and do not
wear.
Armstrongs, with either pot metal or aluminum bodies, tend to wear a little.
That only matters when you rebuild them.
Moss Motors sells 3/8" BSF bolts. I believe that they were 1 1/4" long for
Armstrong,
with the exception of the one with the bracket. That I believe was 1 3/4"
long.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
On Jan 22, 2013, at 7:52 AM, gunnellj tds.net wrote:
> We have both Griling and Armstrong shocks that Worlwide has rebuilt and are
> wanting to put one pair on the 1950 MG TD "hot rod" we are doing. The car
> will have a Ford V8-60 flathead engine.
> Question 1 - Is either design better for this application? The Armstrongs
> "look" better as the filer caps match the back shocks. But that doesn't
> mean they work better.
> Question 2 - It seems that Moss no longer stocks the bolts to hold the
> Armstrong shocks to the frame and we have lost track of our bolts. In a
> quick test it almost seems like either 10 mm fine bolts or 3/8-in. fine
> bolts will thread far enough into the holes, but the test bolts are old and
> cruddy and we can't be sure.
> Does either of these sizes work or do we have to find a source of Whitworth
> fasteners?
> If we used the 10 mm or 3/8-in. fine should we re-tap the holes to whatever
> size?
> Thanks for any help.
>
>
> --
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