mg-t
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights

To: <gunnellj@athenet.net>, <Mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights
From: "Douglas Ormrod" <Douglas.Ormrod@neurological.org.nz>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 15:55:19 +1200
I have resurrected a few of these mechanical switches - all you need is
a little patience and some olive oil - see this web site for
instructions:



http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ts101.htm



The turn signal relay is the same as the one used on the early Morris
Minor - they were built in much larger numbers than the Ts and using the
Minor as a search term or contacting Morris Minor parts people will
usually turn one up.



Cheers



Douglas













-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of gunnellj@athenet.net
Sent: Saturday, 18 April 2009 4:04 PM
To: Mg-t@autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TF Blinkers & Brake Lights



Hello Again



   I am dealing with a number of issues involving brake lights and
directional signals on my MG TF.



   Let's start several years back. The directionals were not canceling
when I got the car. A shop put in a brand new repro switch from the
leading supplier. It didn't work. The shop sent it back and put the old
switch in.



   Then I found a man in Dayton, Ohio selling parts on eBay. He said he
could fix the switches. One hour labor @ $75. I sent him the first
switch and he fixed it. Worked fine. I bought a second non-functional
switch on eBay and sent it to the man in Dayton and had it rebuilt for
my MG TD which has no blinkers. I never installed it.



   Last year the first rebuilt switch started working only on one side.
We took it out and installed the second switch rebuilt by the man in
Dayton. It did not work.  We took the first switch apart and discovered
why it worked only on one side. It had a U-shaped copper contact inside
and half of the "U" was broken off. We figured we could take the other
switch apart and pirate its U-shaped copper contact. No dice. It was of
a different design inside and did not have a U-shaped copper contact.



   This year I found a man in Atlanta area who said he could rebuild the
switches better and cheaper. I sent him the second switch. He returned
it and said it was cleaned. adjusted and tested. When I put it in the
car it did not work properly. The vacuum did not come off on either
side. On the left, it just kept blinking away and seemed impossible to
shut off unless you moved the plastic handle just right. After a 25-mile
ride, I had no blinkers AND NO BRAKE LIGHTS.



   I have now replaced the brake light switch. The first one tested bad,
but the new one did not solve the problem. Still no brake lights and no
blinkers. All other lights work. There is juice at the flasher mounted
under the hood. I have not re-tested the new switch under the car. We
have no signal light switch in the car right now.



   There are several things I'd like to know:



1- Is it possible to get oner of the U-shaped copper contacts so I could
fix that switch?



2- Any ideas on where my problems lie.



3- Any information that would help me track down signal light how-to
articles that were published in Sacred Octagon. Or a wiring diagram for
a car with signal lights.



4- At this point I'm pretty frustrated with the original Lucas vacuum
switches and would just as soon rig up a neat looking aftermarket setup
that works better with toggle switches, a motorcycle switch, a golf
cartt switch, etc. Has anyone done this or know where I can get
information on doing it in a T Series?



John Gunnell

Iola, WI
Mg-t@autox.team.net

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t



Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

Mg-t@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>