You Torqued it down to 30 lbs? My 67.5 2000 Head bolts are torqued down to
65 FT LBS.
Is Your Engine of a different value than mine?
In my book( Chilton 1961-1972) There is no torque less than 33-35 LBS. on
the A12 Engine.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@home.com>; Datsun List
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help) Needed
on Big Island...
> I used Copper Cote on my engine rebuild and did not have any problems.
The
> only problem I did have was that when I removed the head the gasket was a
> *itch to remove especially on the block as it stuck to the block. BUT I
had
> absolutely NO leaks. I sprayed a lite coat on the gasket only.
>
> The other problem I see is that you lubricated the head bolts and then
> torqued it down to 50 lbs. As I was told by many knowlegable listers, the
> bolts should be dry. Hot Rod had an article about lubes and torque and if
> you use oil or some other lubricant the torque values should be about 40%
> LESS. I torqued my oil coated head bolts to 30 lbs and had no problems. I
> did it in 3 stages also 10, 20 and then 30. Never had a problem and after
> removing my head after my bad luck episode it was still straight.
>
> You probably sprayed too much Copper Cote and it starts to liquify when it
> gets hot.
>
> Mike
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow@home.com>
> To: "Datsun List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 1:10 AM
> Subject: RE: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help)
Needed
> on Big Island...
>
>
> > I don't really have any clues as to what's going on here, but, since I
was
> one
> > of the ones that has said positive things about Copper Cote, I might
> mention
> > that I only put it on the gasket itself, not on the block and head. I'm
> not sure
> > how you would spray a coat of it on the block and not get it in the
bores,
> bolt
> > holes, etc. unless you spent a whole lot of effort masking things off. I
> simply
> > spray both sides of the gasket and install it that way.
> >
> > Gordon Glasgow
> > Renton, WA
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David R.
> > > Conrad
> > > Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:06 PM
> > > To: Datsun List
> > > Subject: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help)
Needed
> > > on Big Island...
> > >
> > >
> > > Many thanks to those who have responded with suggestions about my
> baffling
> > > problem. All I have received so far, I had already checked out with
no
> > > success.
> > >
> > > I do have a further "clue" which I had neglected to mention. The more
I
> think
> > > about it, the more I believe it has a strong implication as to the
cause
> of my
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > After each time it has been started and run for about 5-10 minutes (4
> times
> > > since the head installation), I have pulled the plugs afterwards, for
> > > compression checks, valve adjustment and to get the points open for
> > > regapping. Each time I have pulled them I've examined the appearance
of
> the
> > > electrodes. Very unusual. #'s 1, 3, and 4 all have a slightly
"moist"
> > > appearance. Only #2 has a normal gray-tan "hot" appearance. The last
> time I
> > > put them back in, I replaced them in different cylinders.
> > >
> > > The one put in #2 became the one with the normal gray-tan look,
losing
> its
> > > "slightly moist" look it had gotten in another cylinder.
> > >
> > > This suggests to me that maybe I didn't do a good job of installing
the
> head
> > > gasket.
> > >
> > > It's the first time I had used the Permatex "Copper Cote" (someone on
> the list
> > > had touted it). The head surface was pristine, and had been checked
for
> > > "trueness". I had cleaned the block surface as best I could, it was
> good and
> > > smooth. I then sprayed the Copper Cote evenly on both sides of the
> gasket and
> > > on the head and block mating surfaces. I torqued the (lubricated)
bolts
> in
> > > the prescribed sequence, in three stages: 35 ft-lbs, 45 ft-lbs, and
50
> > > ft-lbs. The last time I had installed a roadster head gasket was
about
> 20
> > > years ago, used the gasket "bare", and had no problems. Maybe I was
> > > overzealous this time :-(.
> > >
> > > It also suggests that *only* #2 is firing. I can't believe that's
> > > possible--for the engine to run on one cylinder!! Maybe the others
are
> firing
> > > sporadically ??
> > >
> > > I really don't want to pull the head and install a new head gasket.
> > >
> > > I have already "pulled up" the head bolts back up to 50 ft-lbs before
> the last
> > > time the engine was run.
> > > Most, but not all, required a little additional turning to get back up
> to 50.
> > > Those that didn't, I backed off a little, then pulled back to 50.
> > >
> > > The same bad performance resulted--no apparent improvement.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > >
> > > Don't my good compression check results (original "kokua" message)
imply
> a
> > > good head gasket?
> > >
> > > What could be explanation of the spark plug appearance?
> > >
> > > Could it be actually running on one cylinder? --Nah!
> > >
> > > Any suggestions other than replacing the head gasket? Maybe backing
all
> the
> > > head bolts off in the reverse sequence, then retorquing back to 50?
> > >
> > > All thoughts, recommendations, etc. are solicited.
> > >
> > > TIA,
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > '68 1600
> > > Kailua-Kona
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "David R. Conrad" wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hello List:
> > > >
> > > > My roadster suddenly started operating on three cylinders last July.
> Some
> > > > may recall an appeal from me for advice at that time. I again thank
> those
> > > > who offered opinions/suggestions. My initial diagnostics suggested
a
> bad
> > > > valve in #1 cylinder. That *is* what it turned out to be, a
> triangular
> > > > shaped chip out of the exhaust valve of #1.
> > > >
> > > > Slowed down by heavy involvement in some home improvements, I
finally
> got
> > > > the head off and to "Akamai (meaning 'da best!) Machine" for
> > > > reconditioning. Just after I left it with them, they closed down
the
> shop
> > > > for a 2-week vacation. After a few delays in getting the parts
(some
> > > > associated with the transportation delays after Sept. 11)
> > > >
> > > > Finally got the head back from Akamai Machine last week. Believe
> that
> > > > they did an excellent job. I put the engine back together last
> weekend
> > > > with high hopes that the car would run even better than before; it
had
> been
> > > > running well before the valve failed.
> > > >
> > > > I adjusted the valves to .020 (cold) and performed compression
checks.
> I
> > > > thought the results were quite good. "Dry" the mean value was 133
psi
> > > > (+1, -2), very consistent for two checks, and with 10cc of oil
added,
> the
> > > > mean value was 145 (+/-) 3 psi.
> > > >
> > > > I made no changes to points and timing since it had been running
well
> > > > before the valve failure.
> > > >
> > > > Then I went to start it (full of confidence). Was I disappointed!
> > > >
> > > > Very hard to start, and when started, it ran very irregularly, with
> > > > definite missing and occasional backfiring. It suggested that the
> timing
> > > > was off. The distributor hadn't been touched!
> > > >
> > > > Checked the dwell, and it was 59*, higher than when I had set it,
> maybe
> > > > influenced by the fact that the rpm had to be ~15k to keep it
running.
> > > > (though I thought dwell was not rpm dependent). Anyhow I reset it
to
> 50*
> > > > Then I tried adjusting the timing about 5* each way, advance/retard.
> > > > Seemed to run a little better at 5* retard (that is, rotating the
> dist. 5*
> > > > CCW--maybe that's advance, I don't remember).
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, I've about run out of ideas and it still runs like crap.
> > > >
> > > > I would welcome any thoughts, and thanks in advance!!
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > > > '68 1600
> > > > Kailua-Kona
> > >
> > > ///
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> >
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