I used Copper Cote on my engine rebuild and did not have any problems. The
only problem I did have was that when I removed the head the gasket was a
*itch to remove especially on the block as it stuck to the block. BUT I had
absolutely NO leaks. I sprayed a lite coat on the gasket only.
The other problem I see is that you lubricated the head bolts and then
torqued it down to 50 lbs. As I was told by many knowlegable listers, the
bolts should be dry. Hot Rod had an article about lubes and torque and if
you use oil or some other lubricant the torque values should be about 40%
LESS. I torqued my oil coated head bolts to 30 lbs and had no problems. I
did it in 3 stages also 10, 20 and then 30. Never had a problem and after
removing my head after my bad luck episode it was still straight.
You probably sprayed too much Copper Cote and it starts to liquify when it
gets hot.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow@home.com>
To: "Datsun List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 1:10 AM
Subject: RE: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help) Needed
on Big Island...
> I don't really have any clues as to what's going on here, but, since I was
one
> of the ones that has said positive things about Copper Cote, I might
mention
> that I only put it on the gasket itself, not on the block and head. I'm
not sure
> how you would spray a coat of it on the block and not get it in the bores,
bolt
> holes, etc. unless you spent a whole lot of effort masking things off. I
simply
> spray both sides of the gasket and install it that way.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> Renton, WA
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David R.
> > Conrad
> > Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:06 PM
> > To: Datsun List
> > Subject: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help) Needed
> > on Big Island...
> >
> >
> > Many thanks to those who have responded with suggestions about my
baffling
> > problem. All I have received so far, I had already checked out with no
> > success.
> >
> > I do have a further "clue" which I had neglected to mention. The more I
think
> > about it, the more I believe it has a strong implication as to the cause
of my
> > problem.
> >
> > After each time it has been started and run for about 5-10 minutes (4
times
> > since the head installation), I have pulled the plugs afterwards, for
> > compression checks, valve adjustment and to get the points open for
> > regapping. Each time I have pulled them I've examined the appearance of
the
> > electrodes. Very unusual. #'s 1, 3, and 4 all have a slightly "moist"
> > appearance. Only #2 has a normal gray-tan "hot" appearance. The last
time I
> > put them back in, I replaced them in different cylinders.
> >
> > The one put in #2 became the one with the normal gray-tan look, losing
its
> > "slightly moist" look it had gotten in another cylinder.
> >
> > This suggests to me that maybe I didn't do a good job of installing the
head
> > gasket.
> >
> > It's the first time I had used the Permatex "Copper Cote" (someone on
the list
> > had touted it). The head surface was pristine, and had been checked for
> > "trueness". I had cleaned the block surface as best I could, it was
good and
> > smooth. I then sprayed the Copper Cote evenly on both sides of the
gasket and
> > on the head and block mating surfaces. I torqued the (lubricated) bolts
in
> > the prescribed sequence, in three stages: 35 ft-lbs, 45 ft-lbs, and 50
> > ft-lbs. The last time I had installed a roadster head gasket was about
20
> > years ago, used the gasket "bare", and had no problems. Maybe I was
> > overzealous this time :-(.
> >
> > It also suggests that *only* #2 is firing. I can't believe that's
> > possible--for the engine to run on one cylinder!! Maybe the others are
firing
> > sporadically ??
> >
> > I really don't want to pull the head and install a new head gasket.
> >
> > I have already "pulled up" the head bolts back up to 50 ft-lbs before
the last
> > time the engine was run.
> > Most, but not all, required a little additional turning to get back up
to 50.
> > Those that didn't, I backed off a little, then pulled back to 50.
> >
> > The same bad performance resulted--no apparent improvement.
> >
> > Questions:
> >
> > Don't my good compression check results (original "kokua" message) imply
a
> > good head gasket?
> >
> > What could be explanation of the spark plug appearance?
> >
> > Could it be actually running on one cylinder? --Nah!
> >
> > Any suggestions other than replacing the head gasket? Maybe backing all
the
> > head bolts off in the reverse sequence, then retorquing back to 50?
> >
> > All thoughts, recommendations, etc. are solicited.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > '68 1600
> > Kailua-Kona
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "David R. Conrad" wrote:
> >
> > > Hello List:
> > >
> > > My roadster suddenly started operating on three cylinders last July.
Some
> > > may recall an appeal from me for advice at that time. I again thank
those
> > > who offered opinions/suggestions. My initial diagnostics suggested a
bad
> > > valve in #1 cylinder. That *is* what it turned out to be, a
triangular
> > > shaped chip out of the exhaust valve of #1.
> > >
> > > Slowed down by heavy involvement in some home improvements, I finally
got
> > > the head off and to "Akamai (meaning 'da best!) Machine" for
> > > reconditioning. Just after I left it with them, they closed down the
shop
> > > for a 2-week vacation. After a few delays in getting the parts (some
> > > associated with the transportation delays after Sept. 11)
> > >
> > > Finally got the head back from Akamai Machine last week. Believe
that
> > > they did an excellent job. I put the engine back together last
weekend
> > > with high hopes that the car would run even better than before; it had
been
> > > running well before the valve failed.
> > >
> > > I adjusted the valves to .020 (cold) and performed compression checks.
I
> > > thought the results were quite good. "Dry" the mean value was 133 psi
> > > (+1, -2), very consistent for two checks, and with 10cc of oil added,
the
> > > mean value was 145 (+/-) 3 psi.
> > >
> > > I made no changes to points and timing since it had been running well
> > > before the valve failure.
> > >
> > > Then I went to start it (full of confidence). Was I disappointed!
> > >
> > > Very hard to start, and when started, it ran very irregularly, with
> > > definite missing and occasional backfiring. It suggested that the
timing
> > > was off. The distributor hadn't been touched!
> > >
> > > Checked the dwell, and it was 59*, higher than when I had set it,
maybe
> > > influenced by the fact that the rpm had to be ~15k to keep it running.
> > > (though I thought dwell was not rpm dependent). Anyhow I reset it to
50*
> > > Then I tried adjusting the timing about 5* each way, advance/retard.
> > > Seemed to run a little better at 5* retard (that is, rotating the
dist. 5*
> > > CCW--maybe that's advance, I don't remember).
> > >
> > > Anyhow, I've about run out of ideas and it still runs like crap.
> > >
> > > I would welcome any thoughts, and thanks in advance!!
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > '68 1600
> > > Kailua-Kona
> >
> > ///
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>
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