I don't really have any clues as to what's going on here, but, since I was one
of the ones that has said positive things about Copper Cote, I might mention
that I only put it on the gasket itself, not on the block and head. I'm not sure
how you would spray a coat of it on the block and not get it in the bores, bolt
holes, etc. unless you spent a whole lot of effort masking things off. I simply
spray both sides of the gasket and install it that way.
Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David R.
> Conrad
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:06 PM
> To: Datsun List
> Subject: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help) Needed
> on Big Island...
>
>
> Many thanks to those who have responded with suggestions about my baffling
> problem. All I have received so far, I had already checked out with no
> success.
>
> I do have a further "clue" which I had neglected to mention. The more I think
> about it, the more I believe it has a strong implication as to the cause of my
> problem.
>
> After each time it has been started and run for about 5-10 minutes (4 times
> since the head installation), I have pulled the plugs afterwards, for
> compression checks, valve adjustment and to get the points open for
> regapping. Each time I have pulled them I've examined the appearance of the
> electrodes. Very unusual. #'s 1, 3, and 4 all have a slightly "moist"
> appearance. Only #2 has a normal gray-tan "hot" appearance. The last time I
> put them back in, I replaced them in different cylinders.
>
> The one put in #2 became the one with the normal gray-tan look, losing its
> "slightly moist" look it had gotten in another cylinder.
>
> This suggests to me that maybe I didn't do a good job of installing the head
> gasket.
>
> It's the first time I had used the Permatex "Copper Cote" (someone on the list
> had touted it). The head surface was pristine, and had been checked for
> "trueness". I had cleaned the block surface as best I could, it was good and
> smooth. I then sprayed the Copper Cote evenly on both sides of the gasket and
> on the head and block mating surfaces. I torqued the (lubricated) bolts in
> the prescribed sequence, in three stages: 35 ft-lbs, 45 ft-lbs, and 50
> ft-lbs. The last time I had installed a roadster head gasket was about 20
> years ago, used the gasket "bare", and had no problems. Maybe I was
> overzealous this time :-(.
>
> It also suggests that *only* #2 is firing. I can't believe that's
> possible--for the engine to run on one cylinder!! Maybe the others are firing
> sporadically ??
>
> I really don't want to pull the head and install a new head gasket.
>
> I have already "pulled up" the head bolts back up to 50 ft-lbs before the last
> time the engine was run.
> Most, but not all, required a little additional turning to get back up to 50.
> Those that didn't, I backed off a little, then pulled back to 50.
>
> The same bad performance resulted--no apparent improvement.
>
> Questions:
>
> Don't my good compression check results (original "kokua" message) imply a
> good head gasket?
>
> What could be explanation of the spark plug appearance?
>
> Could it be actually running on one cylinder? --Nah!
>
> Any suggestions other than replacing the head gasket? Maybe backing all the
> head bolts off in the reverse sequence, then retorquing back to 50?
>
> All thoughts, recommendations, etc. are solicited.
>
> TIA,
>
> Dave
>
> '68 1600
> Kailua-Kona
>
>
>
>
>
> "David R. Conrad" wrote:
>
> > Hello List:
> >
> > My roadster suddenly started operating on three cylinders last July. Some
> > may recall an appeal from me for advice at that time. I again thank those
> > who offered opinions/suggestions. My initial diagnostics suggested a bad
> > valve in #1 cylinder. That *is* what it turned out to be, a triangular
> > shaped chip out of the exhaust valve of #1.
> >
> > Slowed down by heavy involvement in some home improvements, I finally got
> > the head off and to "Akamai (meaning 'da best!) Machine" for
> > reconditioning. Just after I left it with them, they closed down the shop
> > for a 2-week vacation. After a few delays in getting the parts (some
> > associated with the transportation delays after Sept. 11)
> >
> > Finally got the head back from Akamai Machine last week. Believe that
> > they did an excellent job. I put the engine back together last weekend
> > with high hopes that the car would run even better than before; it had been
> > running well before the valve failed.
> >
> > I adjusted the valves to .020 (cold) and performed compression checks. I
> > thought the results were quite good. "Dry" the mean value was 133 psi
> > (+1, -2), very consistent for two checks, and with 10cc of oil added, the
> > mean value was 145 (+/-) 3 psi.
> >
> > I made no changes to points and timing since it had been running well
> > before the valve failure.
> >
> > Then I went to start it (full of confidence). Was I disappointed!
> >
> > Very hard to start, and when started, it ran very irregularly, with
> > definite missing and occasional backfiring. It suggested that the timing
> > was off. The distributor hadn't been touched!
> >
> > Checked the dwell, and it was 59*, higher than when I had set it, maybe
> > influenced by the fact that the rpm had to be ~15k to keep it running.
> > (though I thought dwell was not rpm dependent). Anyhow I reset it to 50*
> > Then I tried adjusting the timing about 5* each way, advance/retard.
> > Seemed to run a little better at 5* retard (that is, rotating the dist. 5*
> > CCW--maybe that's advance, I don't remember).
> >
> > Anyhow, I've about run out of ideas and it still runs like crap.
> >
> > I would welcome any thoughts, and thanks in advance!!
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > '68 1600
> > Kailua-Kona
>
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