Mike, If you have a dremel moto tool or a Black and Decker roto zip, the
cutoff blades will go through the metal and you can slowly cut the piece out
with little effort. Unfortunately you had to go through some work to get the
starter out, my only question is whether you replaced it with the short
starter? Makes things a little easier on the next go around.
Gerardo
67.5 Solex
64 1500
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Harper" <roadsterdude1600@yahoo.com>
To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Starter Removal
> Thanks everyone for your suggestions on the starter
> removal. As usual, your experience saved me time &
> energy, and gave me many ideas for the future. For
> instance, whenever someday I have my body off the
> frame, the triangular brace is history, but I do not
> have a safe efficient way to take it out with
> everything still attached to the car...
>
> Thought about the engine/tranny mount removal and
> jacking the engine up as datsunmike suggested, but
> could not see how I could clear obsticales without
> removing something first.
>
> Finally bit the bullet, removed the carbs, and
> partially disassembled the water pipe assembly under
> the heat shield, folded everything back and tried
> bringing the starter up between the manifolds and the
> steering column. SOOO close, but no go. Finally
> removed the intake manifold, but left the header in
> place along with the 2 end nuts that hold only the
> header. SUCCESS!
>
> Reassembly, testing and thank goodness a working
> starter this time. Damn those engineers! Good luck
> Mike with the gear reduction starter, I'm just not
> ready (yet) for that investment. My new (rebuilt)
> starter was $50.
>
> Thanks again for the ideas and advice. This list
> ROCKS!
>
> Mike Harper
> '66 1600 with properly operating starter and lots of
> new parts, ready for Road Atlanta
> '68 2000 will arrive tomorrow from TX (Thanks again
> Tom)
> Charleston SC
> --- datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
> > Mike,
> >
> > I remember that I loosened or removed the bolts to
> > the engine/tranny mounts
> > and raised the engine a little with a floor jack and
> > moved the engine over a
> > little to the passenger side and that let me get it
> > out.
> >
> > FWIW, I looked at the gear reduction motors sold by
> > TSI and they are a thing
> > of beauty and will order one. They are about 2/3s
> > the size of a 2 L starter
> > and can easily be taken out! Yes, they're not cheap
> > but a lot less
> > aggrevation to remove but they are very reliable
> > from what I heard.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Harper" <roadsterdude1600@yahoo.com>
> > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 4:42 PM
> > Subject: Starter Removal
> >
> >
> > > List, I am preparing to remove the starter that is
> > > malfunctioning (newly installed "rebuilt" 2000
> > > starter) and wanted to pick your brains on the
> > minimum
> > > stuff I am going to have to remove to accomplish
> > this.
> > > Mine is a '66 with the triangular brace on the
> > bady
> > > just outboard of the starter, so it ain't coming
> > out
> > > thru the hole between the frame & the body by
> > going in
> > > thru the front wheel well. It is not going to
> > drop
> > > down because of the header & the exhaust. Am I
> > going
> > > to have to pull the intake manifold?, or will
> > pulling
> > > the carbs give me enough room. Just do not want
> > to
> > > pull more than I have to. Experience, SPEAK!
> > >
> > > Mike Harper
> > > '66 1600
> > > Charleston SC
> > > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant
> > messaging with Yahoo!
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