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Re: L20b swap?

To: "Matt Peterson" <pete_303@hotmail.com>,
Subject: Re: L20b swap?
From: Ronnie Day <rday@airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 22:00:55 -0500
>Just took my car off insurance today so no more roadster driving for me 
>until next spring :(  Anyway I want to make a few improvements to it this 
>winter.  My first project will be to replace the brakes, that's no problem.  
>My second project I want to tackel would be to put in a different engine.  
>So since it seems that a few people have done the L20b switch I would like 
>to ask anyone who's done this before of any problems or modifications they 
>ran into.  I would just like to get an idea of what I should expect before I 
>drop any money for an engine.
>
>Also, does anyone know of a good place to find a decent running L20b engine 
>and trans?  I'm going to call a few places locally when I get a day off but 
>I don't know what luck I'll have.

Matt,

Although it might seem a bit strange for me to suggest it, you might 
consider a KA-24 as an alternative to the L-motor. You can contact Bill 
Kenyon (SRL311KA@aol.com) for info on that swap. He had his KA powered 
(originally) 2000 at the Shasta Ski Park this summer. He and his son Mike 
had previously dropped a KA in Mike's 510. Both cars are really 
screamers. He can give you the pluses and minuses of both options. The KA 
has size on it's side along with fuel injection. I think it's also a 
crossflow head. 

A popular option that many 510 types are using is to punch an L-20b out 
to 87mm and use the crank, rods, and pistons from an LZ-22. For a street 
motor this has the advantage of the increased displacement at very low 
cost. However the low pressure cast pistons used in the LZ-22 don't like 
sustained higher revs, but for a street motor that'll probably not be a  
problem. It's also fairly simple to adapt the L-series head to the LZ 
blocks (LZ-20/22, more difficult with the LZ-24). Problem using the LZ-24 
is that the block is 3/4 taller than the L-20b/LZ-20/LZ-22 blocks which 
are themselves 3/4 taller than the L-16/L-18. Neither is there an off the 
shelf timing chain that will work with the LZ-24/L-head combo. You have 
to roll your own. Putting the LZ-24 crank in an L-block would require 
relieving the block, too. A lot of work. That's why most of us just stick 
with use the LZ-22 pieces in either the L-20b block or adapting an L-head 
to an LZ-20 bored to 87mm.

For a lot of info on L-series motors, and a lot of other related stuff, 
check out Jason Gray's website (http://home.att.net/~jason510/). I'm in 
the middle of building an L-18 to go in our E/Prepared 510. After that 
car's up and running, I plan to build an L-22 for the '73. The VG-30 V-6 
is also popular and there are a number of rotary powered 510's around, 
too. A built 13b rotary should be impressive in a roadster.

FWIW, Ron

________________
Ronnie Day
rday@airmail.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)


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