If you are using your vacuum advance, get the proper wire or your advance will
not work
properly.
Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> And don't forget that the vacuum advance will move the plate that the points
>and wire are on,
> which will cause flexing in the wire.
>
> Gary McCormick wrote:
>
> > I was reading Andrew's most recent message when I remembered the electrical
>trouble I had
> > with a '73 or '74 510 I had in college. Same symptoms: no spark and
>everything seeming to
> > check out alright. I was just about to reply that it had turned out to be
>this little wire
> > connecting the points to the distributor, when I read Jerry's message.
> >
> > On my 510 the wire looked perfect from the outside (it had cloth - probably
>fiberglas
> > cloth - insulation) but was fractured internally - my theory was that it
>stuck up in the
> > way of the rotor and got whipped every time the rotor went around, which
>meant that it
> > took a lot of abuse before it finally let go. When you replace it, make
>sure that it is
> > tucked down out of the way of the rotor - and Happy Motoring!
> >
> > Gary McCormick
> > San Jose, CA
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> > jdg1 wrote:
> >
> > > Andrew,
> > >
> > > On the older Datsuns, including the roadster, there was a special wire
>that
> > > ran from the side of the distributor to the points. This wire (orginally
> > > white) would sometimes break internally even though the outer sheath would
> > > remain intact. Pulling on the ends of the wire will not give a true
>picture
> > > if it is broken since you may be pulling on the sheath. Testing the wire
> > > with an Ohm meter may also be inaccurate as the wire may make contact in
> > > certain positions -- usually the same position as you are holding it to
> > > test. You may want to check this wire and replace it if possible.
> > >
> > > good luck,
> > >
> > > jerry
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Andrew Jacobs <Legal-Z@worldnet.att.net>
> > > To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 6:31 PM
> > > Subject: still no spark
> > >
> > > >first i want to thank ron for his input so far, as well as giving me his
> > > >phone number. i appreciate the hospitality of this list. now, on to the
> > > >problem at hand. i have changed the coil and the ballast resistor, the
> > > >points and the condensor. still nothing. i know my battery is ok because
> > > it
> > > >is still turning the engine over after maybe 20+ tries without any
>charging
> > > >inbetween. where else can i look?? i thought maybe the ignition switch,
> > > but
> > > >when i turn it to the on position, all of the accessories work no
>problem.
> > > >do i just need cut open every wire cluster and examine every wire? i
>hope
> > > >not, but that is where i'm going next unless someone has another
> > > suggestion.
> > > >i appreciate the help so far.
> > > >thanks,
> > > >andy
> > > >p.s. ron i didn't call you at home because it is getting late here, but i
> > > >appreciate the offer.
> > > >
> > > >
>
> --
> Gordon Glasgow
> Renton, WA
> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org
--
Philip Erickson Phone: (619) 622-7963
Associate Scientist
Medicinal Chemistry FAX: (619) 678-8277
Agouron Pharmaceuticals, Inc.
4215 Sorrento Valley Boulevard San Diego, CA 92121
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