RE: torquing
Yep, there are many weird offset socket/extensions in this world. Most look
list a bent wrench, with a square drive on one end. You'll find them in almost
every mechanical industry, except automotive. So most torque wrenches and
mechanics manuals include instructions on how to calculate the torque change
induced by these extensions. And, yes, I know of many people have taken
these instructions as applying to normal socket extenion bars.
RE: ZS floats:
Randy's first rule on setting ZS floats is to read the book, then toss
it in the corner. While the measurement they give is exact, they are
vague on where to measure. The float is angled, and all edges are well
rounded, which makes measuring just about impossible.
With the float bowl removed, hold the carb in front of you with the
throttle plate down, float to the right. Angle it a bit so that the jet tube
is pointing at two o'clock. The idea here is to get the float down firmly
on the needle/seat, but not hard enough to compress the spring inside the
needle. (Note, only a few ZS have spring loaded needles, don't worry if your's
doesn't). Holding the carb like this, the molding seam in the float should
be dead parallel to the carb base (float bowl face).
Do not bend the float -> needle tab more than a few degrees from parallel
to the float pin. The float can walk back and forth slightly on it's mounting
pin. If the tab is angled, the contact height will change depending on which
side the float wandered to. The carb kit should include several different
needle/seat gaskets of differing thickness to make the major adjustments with.
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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