Marvin,
Those tanks that are in front of the rear bumper are not immune to air
leaks. Not just the fittings. The welds too. They are not "factory made,
or ASME"
Also, for your info, a leak down of 6 hours is not a "slow leak" by any
stretch of the imagination! Your max leak down should still open the door
for at least a month.
Check valves are notorious for leaking as they get blocked by debris or
corrosion that prevent them from closing. They are also effected negatively
by placement in the system too close to the heat source. Do not attach such
a valve directly to the pump! (Use a stainless flex line that has the one
way valve at the other end.) The pump probably has a check valve that is
highly susceptible to leaking due to the associated heat.
I do not recommend using "SOAP" . Y not splurge and buy a lifetime supply
of kids bubble solution at WalMart for $1? Its bubbles are far longer
lasting, and much more detectable after wetting a fitting that is a true
slow leak.
Good Luck,
John W. Martin Vin 1973/0079
16754 E Ave X Space 25
Llano, Ca. 93544
661 944 4801/cell 317 9414
-----Original Message-----
From: Maycinc@cs.com
To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 00:26:10 EDT
Subject: [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 12.0/3.0] [Bricklin] Air Leak Update
I'm still trying to track down the door air leak on ol' 1343. I put a
check valve in the line to the compressor so that's not it. None of the
fittings are leaking. The doors stay up even after the pressure bleeds down
so it's
not the solenoids.
Thought it might be the pressure gauge but I put soap all over it and
couldn't detect any leaks. So that leaves a leak in the regulator, water
trap,
or the line to the tank.
Any idea how to see if it's the regulator? It's a rather slow leak as it
takes at least 6 to 8 hours for the pressure to drop to zero.
I guess 7 years with no leaks is a pretty good run.
Marvin
#1343
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