Thanks for the insights Rick. I have my 74' Brick complete disassembled
down to the frame and am installing a Chevy 305 TPI so oil pan clearance
shouldn't be a problem (though inference between the distributor and
firewall might). At least with the engine out I can get at everything.
Which power rack and pinion unit are you using? I haven't measured the
amount of linear travel the existing suspension requires, but racks usually
move about 5-6 inches. I notice that the Brick has the tie rods in front of
the wheel axles which is a bit unusual. I'm taking plenty of digital pics
so I know how to put it all back together and will pass them onto the John
Blair for.
George Schiro
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-bricklin@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-bricklin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Phil Martin
Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 5:02 PM
To: gschiro@lni.net; Bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rack and Pinion Steering
Yes, I'm doing this. But I'm also replacing the entire frame and suspension
with custom-fabbed stuff, so it doesn't quite count... Rick (I think that's
HTC's real name) offers a cogent explanation of what's involved - replacing
the crossmember and spindles is probably the cleanest although not
necessarily the easiest way to accomplish this.
If the biggest problem is oil-pan clearance, then how about switching to a
dry-sump system? ;)
I'm doing this mod (amongst many others) on my Bricklin, but on my '84 RX-7
which is a daily driver and much closer to stock (just some driveline
changes and lowering springs & dampers), I decided that it wasn't worth the
effort. Your Bricklin is probably somewhere between the two in terms of
mods.
My (unsolicited) advice would be:
If you want a straightforward mod to improve the feel and quickness of the
steering, then changing to a rebuilt or different recirc ball setup is
probably your best bet, along with some more modern, lower-profile tires and
maybe some stiffer bushings and a strut tower brace. Even changing the pump
to one regulated at a lower pressure to give the stock box less boost might
improve feel.
If you want something trick and cool and you're keen to do some more
extensive work, then definitely do the switch to R&P. Look at the bushings,
suspension geometry, control arms, wheels/tires, shocks/springs, and bracing
while you're at it. And send us pics of your work!!! :)
Hope this helps,
--
Phil Martin
"I want the things that I had before
Like a Star Wars poster on my bedroom door"
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