----- Original Message -----
From: "alphachi" <alphachi@writeme.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Four season Bricklins
> Hi Keith,
> I had just a limited time with Bricklins in the snow when I drove TT's
car
> (or attempted to drive, living in Miami for too many years). Although TT
> was able to finesse the B like an old pro, his compressor switch froze and
> drained his battery (using a marine rated covered switch would have been
> more appropriate). Also using Optima's Yellow Top dual start/deep cycle
> battery should resolve any battery issues, as this battery is truly a
unique
> bird. Of course, a good alt is required that can take the higher drain.
> The doors worked fine though so maybe yours need some light lube and I
> would really suggest putting a drier/oiler in the line.
> As for overheating, the lower t'stat might actually work against you.
> IMHO, the best fix for this is installing a t'stat regulated twin elect
fan
> IN FRONT of the rad and condenser in push mode. This has worked
incredibly
> well in keeping mine well within limits (180-210) whether high speed
> cruises, standing idle, or midday stop and go traffic and I'm producing a
> lot more hp (heat) than stock. Do NOT remove the gaskets at the hood/cowl
> line as this then allows fumes into the fresh air vents! This idea is not
> only poorly conceived, it's downright dangerous!
> The rear defroster can have several problems including breaks in the
> grid, or a weak connection at the hatch soldered terminal among the
typical
> stuff.
> The door leaks are another problem and even after TT's install of new
> seals, adjustments and promises, they still gush and the new seals are
> already deteriorating!
> The blower mod TT performed really f'd up my vent system since it
> disconnects the defroster control and screws everything up and so not only
> would I not recommend it, it should be condemned!
> Either Bob H or TT should have the p/n on hand for the blower motor.
> There still appears to be a search for a higher speed motor that rotates
in
> the RIGHT direction. I'm all ears on this one.
> Well, I hope some of this helps. As for rear traction, I think snow tires
a
> re a good idea. The stock B (any year) does not have an extraordinary
> amount of HP at the rear wheel, and it certainly is no featherweight.
>
> stephan #2821
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Kelley" <kkelley@comauction.com>
> To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:00 PM
> Subject: Heater Blower Motor and Winter Bricklins
>
>
> > Does anyone know the part number of the heater
> > blower motor? The fan just stopped working,
> > and its not the fuse, so... I am actually driving
> > my car this winter, so it's kind of critical
> > I find a way to fix it, if not for the warmth,
> > then simply for the visibility. Already my
> > rear defrost does not work.
> >
> > Other winter problems I have had, if it will
> > disuade anyone from attempting to depend on their
> > Bricklin in the winter include:
> >
> > On particularly cold days, my doors would not open,
> > after rebuilding the solenoids in the compartment
> > behind the driver's seat, they open most, but not
> > all of the time.
> >
> > My electric air compressor (only a year old), on
> > cold days sounds sickly, and today blew fuse after
> > fuse before overcoming whatever hurtle it needed
> > to before croaking to life again.
> >
> > When my heater was working, leaving the car running
> > long enough to warm it up for a) passenger comfort
> > or b) to allow the doors to work, would cause my
> > car to overheat to such an extent that it would
> > stall and not start again. And I do have a new 160
> > degree thermostat in it.
> >
> > Getting out of my driveway a couple of days ago,
> > the sheet metal beneath my driver's side floorpan
> > was ripped off by the snow, along with the switch
> > that changes from headlights to brights. I hope it
> > wasn't important.
> >
> > Getting into my driveway, I will often catch snow
> > causing my belts to get wet and squeak something fierce.
> >
> > At the slightest snow, the Bricklin will get stuck,
> > or slip. It's too powerful, rear wheel drive, and
> > way too low. admittedly, I should buy snow tires,
> > though I think it would not make enough difference
> > for this area.
> >
> > Once, while I was stuck for a while, my transmission
> > made funny noises any time I put it in park, it
> > stopped when I got it out of the snow, but it also
> > just about stopped my heart when it did it.
> >
> > When the snow is thawing, the roof leaks water; the
> > doors leak cold air all the time.
> >
> > The battery, new, gets weak often in the winter, no
> > doubt due to the extra draw by the air compressor and
> > the fact that I only live 2 miles from the office.
> >
> > These along with the failure of the defroster and
> > rear defroster due to whatever little Bricklin
> > electrical gremlins, make the car undrivable in the
> > winter, make for alot of time standing or driving
> > in the cold, make for alot of fixing of things
> > in the cold, and generally make for a miserable
> > experience.
> >
> > The moral is, plan ahead, buy a winter car, if you
> > ever thought you could make it through the winter
> > because you don't drive much, you can't, not really.
> >
> > So, because it's too late for me, before I get on my
> > knees in the snow to try to pull my blower motor
> > (I can't get at my garage because of the snow drifts)
> > does anyone have that part number?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Keith Kelley
> > #1766
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