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[6pack] RE:

To: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman@gmail.com>, "6-Pack"
Subject: [6pack] RE:
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2007 08:03:05 -0800
        John:

        Your bypass valves are misadjusted. These bleed air past the
throttle when decelerating to reduce emissions. If they are misadjusted
they are slow to close and keep the idle speed too high for too long.
        On each carb in turn, turn the bypass screw clockwise until the
idle speed rises and stays high. Then turn the screw counter clockwise
until the idle falls to normal, and then turn the screw one additional
turn counter clockwise. Do not remove the internal star lock washer from
the screws when making the adjustments.
        The front carb is easy, as the adjustment is out in the open,
very accessible. The back carb is a pain because the adjustment is
between the carbs, and the throttle linkage is in the way. You need a
small screw driver no longer than 1-1/2" for that one. I finally gave up
and fabricated a small screwdriver from a small nail, which I keep in my
tool box. Even my jewelers screw drivers were too long. Fortunately, you
only need to make the adjustment once.

        Cheers,

        Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of John VanNorman
Sent: November 10, 2007 1:27 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject:

<snip>

When coasting or braking after accelerating, the engine rpms are
dropping back down very, very slowly - slower than they should.  For
example, if the engine is running at 850 rpms and you hit the throttle
(either driving or just sitting still), taking the engine up to say
2000 rpms, instead of quickly dropping back down to 850, it instead
slowly slides down, taking 4 to 6 seconds to drop back down to 850
rpm.

<snip>

Thanks.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6




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