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RE: Longer slave cylinder push rods - Recommendations?

To: "Bruce Simms" <brucesimms2003@yahoo.ca>, <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Longer slave cylinder push rods - Recommendations?
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 16:54:59 -0800
        Bruce:

        The adjustable push rod does nothing to improve a bad clutch,
with one possible exception: Your clutch is so far gone that depressing
the pedal causes the push rod to eject from the slave cylinder. In that
case, you can prevent the ejection with an adjustable push rod.
Otherwise the adjustable item is of no benefit because the TR6 clutch,
being hydraulic, is self adjusting.
        A long throw slave would be a better choice. The issue is that
you need at least 5/8" of pushrod travel with the pushrod attached to
the middle hole on the cross shaft lever to disengage the clutch
reliably. If anything is not working properly (broken fork pin, worn
linkages, worn throw out bearing, worn fork, etc, etc, etc.) then you
need MORE than 5/8" of travel to get the clutch to function, and even
then the clutch will probably feel heavy, misbehave, etc.
        Based on your description, a long throw slave would *POSSIBLY*
let you postpone the clutch job, if you don't mind a bit higher pedal
effort. It is possible (likely?) that you will still find the clutch
behavior an issue even if you correct an inability to engage first gear
with the car stationary.
        The bottom line is that everything must be in pristine
condition, and you must take extra measures to insure that the fork pin
does not break. Nelson Reidel mentions that over tightening can lead to
fractures, and so does nothing except tighten the pin gently. Some
people seem to feel that the fork pins currently available are inferior,
and substitute a grade 8 bolt that has been machined to fit. Still
others like me use the "belt and suspenders" approach, and cross drill
and press in a roll pin or a bolt in addition to a new fork pin.
        If I felt that I needed something like a whiz bang slave
cylinder or an adjustable push rod, I personally would not wait and
instead pull the tranny and go through the clutch from top to bottom. My
experience with band aid fixes has been pretty negative, so I am not
inclined to try them. But then, that's me.

        Let us know what happens,

        Vance
        
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bruce Simms
Sent: February 08, 2006 7:42 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Longer slave cylinder push rods - Recommendations?

Good Morning Gents:
   
  I'll be doing a clutch job in a few months. I have the usual symptons
of a broken pin and maybe a bad throwout bearing.  I've done the
research and followed the list for some time.   
   
  The RF wants you to replace your slave cylinder push rod as part of
their recommended comprehensive clutch job..  Is only a $10 part.  I
rebuilt my slave cylinder a few years ago.   Is there any merit in going
one step further in getting an adjustable push rod or a "long throw"
slave cylinder from someone such as BPNW?
   
  Thank you,
   
  Bruce Simms
  73 TR6




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