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RE: Wiper Mechanism

To: "John Zimmerman" <JohnZimmerman@vandorndemag.com>
Subject: RE: Wiper Mechanism
From: "Stephen Hanselman" <tr6@kc4sw.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2002 13:26:33 -0700
John,

I'd drill the rivets and work with the wheel boxes that way.  If yours are
like mine were the rubber grommets  (seals, supports ??) are hard as a
rock and may be cracked.  You might want to replace those also.  The rods
that run between the wheel boxes are variously listed as "no longer avail"
or "5 foot piece cut-to-fit".  I found that the 5/16" brake lines that
Napa sells fit almost perfectly.  the almost comes from the distance
between boxes being 1/4 inch longer than 12 inches.

One of the other listers looks like he had the same problem I had with the
new wheel box.  I used the vise grips and "adjusted" the tube mounting
points and the "rub" strip to make the wheel box run smoothly.

Steve
tr6@kc4sw.com

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of John Zimmerman
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:34 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Wiper Mechanism


I just purchased new wiper mechanisms for the TR6.  I noticed a note in
the TRF sale catalog that the access point is under the dash behind the
glove box.  I see the access panel and can get to it with out too much
trouble.  The access panel on the fire wall is riveted in place, not
screwed.  Am I correct in assuming that the correct procedure is to undo
the cable at the wiper motor and then slide both mechanisms out through
the back of the dash board, or do I need to drill out the rivets and
remove the fire wall panel to get to the driver's side wiper?  Any
information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
John Z

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