I have to disagree with Brooks. Bench bleeding the master cylinder is
always required on a new master cylinder. Whichever method you use to
bleed the wheel cylinders, however is up to choice, albeit Spousal,
pressure, vacuum, etc.
I have had bad flexible hoses that made bleeding difficult...... it
seems that 20 plus year old flexible brake hose can swell inside, making
it difficult to get adequate fluid to the wheels, and a soft pedal.
A leaky master can also be the culprit. It'll bypass inside without an
external evidence of a leak, but won't function properly.
Dick, I believe the way the conversion people address rear brake
pressure is to install an adjustable in-line valve that relieves some
pressure to alleviate early lock-up of the rear brakes. Summit Racing
sells them for 60 bucks or so.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brooks Bullock" <airsmyth@covad.net>
To: "Sullivan, John G, SOBUS" <sullij@ATT.COM>; "6 Pack List (E-mail)"
<6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 3:51 AM
Subject: Re: Brakes
> John:
>
> I would sometimes struggle with those brakes in the solo mode and one
> particular time was at my wits end trying to accomplish this task ,
then
> someone strongly suggested using a hose in a jar with enough fluid to
keep
> it submerged and leaving the bleeder screw open throughout the
process.(as
> described in nearly every maintenance manual). As it turned out on the
first
> try, it worked perfectly. I have never tried it any differently since,
no
> longer worry with bench bleeding and have no trouble bleeding brakes
solo
> anymore. I just have to start with a little more fluid in the
beginning.
>
> always glad to chat about six's
>
> Brooks
> Atlanta GA
> 74&76 six's
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sullivan, John G, SOBUS" <sullij@ATT.COM>
> To: "6 Pack List (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Cc: <sullij@att.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 10:23 AM
> Subject: Brakes
>
>
> > Ok, I do need some help! Hard to admit.
> >
> > I have been working on may brakes for a month or two. I have
replaced the
> > wheel cylinders and shoes on the rear, the master cylinder and
installed
> > rebuilt calipers from TRF. Now I have replaced the fluid with DOT 5
> > (silicon): However, I can't seem to get the brakes bleed.
> >
> > I am using the miti vac tool, starting at the right rear, then left
rear,
> > right front, right front. I most cases I am getting 50 lbs of vacuum
> before
> > I open the bleed screw. I then close the screw and rebuild the
vacuum.
> > Initially I didn't see any fluid making it down to the wheel, now I
do,
> but
> > still lots of air. I asked my wife Jane to work the pedal and tried
the
> old
> > fashion way and get the same results.
> >
> > Am I not being patient enough? I can't see the pwda as an issue;
although,
> I
> > didn't remove or rebuild it.
> >
> > I do remember doing my clutch hydraulics and after a good period I
could
> > feel the system "firm up." I have more that than nothing because
when I do
> > press the pedal the shoes/calipers expand.
> >
> > Any comments are appreciated.
> >
> > John
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