John---You can pick up about 2" of leg room if you're willing to do a
few things.
To move the seat back means that new plates must be made for the
'original' track to be attached to. There are four captive nuts under
the floor pan for each seat track. It would be best to continue to use
them. Fashion a pair of steel plates, maybe 3/8" thick and about as
wide as the originals, but 2" longer at the front. Transfer the original
track holes to these new plates, but back 2" farther.
Join the new with the old (weld or bolt) so that the adjustable track
will allow the seat to go back till it bumps against the (inside) wheel
housing behind the seat. Note: You will lose most of the reclining
feature if you now slide the seat ALL of the way back, but that's one of
the compromises to be made to stretch out long legs.
You can pick up another 1/2" by reconfiguring the gas pedal so it's bent
down at the point of foot contact. A close look will make this easier
to understand. It's soft metal and will bend fairly easy. (I took mine
out to do it, but it can be done in place if you use bending irons or
get inventive with Crescent wrenches, etc. You won't lose full throttle
if done correctly.
I spaced my steering wheel two inches closer to me, using three aluminum
blocks drilled thru for two longer bolts each, and used the six original
tapped holes in the steering column. Most of the horn pad can be cut to
shape, should you desire, (I did) but the horn 'button' will be recessed
those two inches. (You can get used to this.) This gave my right leg
room to go from the gas pedal to the brake without cocking it
'sideways'. Every little bit helps!...and easier than shortening the
tibia.
Dick T.
'73
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