Bert,
I have looked at several wiring diagrams, and have found descrepancies
with all of them, however the factory diagram is the best overall. I have
heard that a fellow lister has published a more correct version, but I
haven't seen this one yet. Where is the symbol that you are questioning?
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Van der Stee <bvdstee1@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 5:37 AM
Subject: RE: Battery drained after a drive
>Joseph,
>
>When the 6 fails to start, it does crank but slowly, too slow to get it
>started.
>My dash has an amp meter instead of volt meter, and that amp meter is
>showing decharge at that moment. When the car is running, the meter goes
>to charge for about 10 seconds and then returns to "neutral" whereas
>normally it remains in the charging side of the amp meter for some time.
> When I turn my headlights on, the meter goes to modest decharge
>immediately.
>
>Measuring between neg term and battery indeed shows about 12v. I did not
>measure the amps but will do this tomorrow. I will also check what it gives
>with and without the alternator.
>
>The manual that I am using is the factory manual. Do you perhaps have
>experience with others - which is the best ?
>
>Thanks for your reply !
>
>Regards,
>Bert
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: J. Garruba [SMTP:jgarruba@hotpop.com]
>Sent: lundi 24 juillet 2000 5:32
>To: Bert Van der Stee; 6pack@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Battery drained after a drive
>
>Bert,
>
> When the car fails to start what happens exactly? Does the car crank
>slowly? or not at all? What does the dash volt meter show with the key in
>the run pos? and the CRANK pos? How about when the car is running?
>
> When you checked for current between the neg term and the battery did you
>set your meter to the current scale? How many miliamps did you read? If
>you perform the test you described with the meter set for voltage, it will
>surely show 12v potential between those two points, even with a miniscule
>amount of current. Most modern cars normaly show less than 30 miliamps,
>the TR6 should be less than that with few circuits drawing power
>constantly, (maybe radio memory and electronic voltage regulator)
>
> One thing that comes to mind as a possible current draw that you may not
>have considered is the diode assembly in the alternator. If a diode has
>failed here it could cause a large draw. To check this perform your
>current draw test with the meter set for AMPS both with all the alternator
>wires connected and disconnected.
>
> As for the symbol, what manual did you see it in? Factory, Haynes,
>Mitchel, Motor? What circuit is it in? A current draw while the car is
>off will most likely be due to a failed component, as a direct short in a
>wire would blow a fuse or melt a wire. A bad ground is very unlikely to be
>the cause of a current draw. ( I avoid sentences like "It could never be
>the cause of the problem" but in this case I am tempted).
> One final note: When a multi-meter is in AMP mode do not measure voltage
>across the battery, Remember that in this mode the meter acts like a wire
>and presents a direct short between its terminals. It must always be
>inserted in series with a circuit to measure current.
>
>Let Us know how you make out
>
>Best Regards,
>Joseph Garruba
>
>----------
>> From: Bert Van der Stee <bvdstee1@yahoo.com>
>> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Battery drained after a drive
>> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 10:17 AM
>>
>> Hello Six-packers,
>>
>> I am looking for some advice on the following :
>>
>> The problem :
>> After I drive the 6 for about 20 miles and stop it, I cannot get it fired
>
>> up any more afterwards because of a dead battery...
>>
>> What I already tried :
>> * First things first - check the battery : it still gives correct
>voltage,
>> a battery tester showed an "OK" on all of the cells as well.
>>
>> * Afterwards, I turned all appliances "off", disconnected the negative
>side
>> from the battery and put the voltmeter between the minus side of the
>> battery and the battery cable. There was current flowing ! Disconnected
>> one by one all the fuses, but even with all 3 disconnected the current
>flow
>> remains. ==> something must happen between the battery and the fuses
>> already. A bad ground ?!
>>
>> * A visual check on different cables did not show any bad wires or
>> anything.
>>
>> * In the wiring diagram, the first appliance connected to the battery "+"
>
>> side is the starter. Therefore, I tried by removing the cable to the
>> starter and replacing this, but no change...
>>
>>
>> So - can anyone help me with an easy solution to find the bad ground, or
>> should I try to replace one by one all the wires until solved ? Could the
>
>> cause also be in one of the parts themselves intead of the cables ?
>>
>> Also, in the wiring diagram in my workshop manual, I find at two places
>the
>> symbol of an arrow (in bold) pointing downwards. What does this mean,
>pls
>> ? It is definitely another symbol than the "ground" symbol used in there.
>>
>> Thanks to all for your help - great help this discussion group by the way
>!
>>
>> Bert
>> 72 TR6
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>>
>
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>
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