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121. re: [TR] Which distributor? (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 18:57:16 -0400; Jim, I believe that it is a DM2 on all the dizzies up to/including (I think) TR4. The TR4A had a 25D4. -Tony == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2006-05/msg00659.html (6,807 bytes)
122. [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 09:51:55 -0400; I want to improve the handling on my TR4A. No swaybar is available here in the US specifically for this model. Many are available for the TR6. But, the front frame is a little different on the TR6. I; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00063.html (9,403 bytes)
123. Re: [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 14:28:40 -0400; You and several others suggested the TR6 radiator shield. I like that idea. I had thought that the actual TR6 frame extended more forward and while the shield might FIT, it would still not be far eno; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00078.html (11,183 bytes)
124. Re: [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 14:35:58 -0400; With the tow loops on the front of the stock TR4A radiator shield, I wonder where the bar would fit on a 4A. When you position the bar perfectly horizontal, it wants to sit where the loops are! So, e; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00079.html (11,196 bytes)
125. Re: [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 17:18:20 -0400; I can get it thru one of them, but then I could not get the arm thru the second..... -Tony == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00086.html (9,156 bytes)
126. Re: [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2006 17:25:27 -0400; Jim, thanks for the pix! Nice looking undercarriage! The sway bar looks great installed. If the VB bar is 3/4", that probably is adequate for me. I picked 7/8" only because I had once had a car fitte; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00088.html (9,435 bytes)
127. Re: [TR] advice on installing a front swaybar on TR4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2006 06:02:44 -0400; Well, your bar fits just beautifully. I will look into having Goodparts make a custom bar for me with 11" arm lengths. Your photo makes it look as if the measurement is taken from the center of the; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00094.html (9,361 bytes)
128. [TR] suspension travel in a 4A (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 15:44:56 -0400; Does anyone know the up and down suspension travel in a TR4A? I am asking this as a follow-up to my questions regarding a front swaybar for the car. Richard Good (Goodparts) can make a custom bar for; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00157.html (8,198 bytes)
129. [TR] re: 1976 Eldorado (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2006 16:52:33 -0400; Lou, I hesitate to admit it, but I always liked the 1976 Eldorado. It is so.... so..... what it is. A huge boat. With, what, a 500 cu. in. engine. Space in the back for a pool AND an orgy. There was; /html/triumphs/2006-06/msg00162.html (6,830 bytes)
130. [TR] Another dead voltage stabilizer! Why? (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2006 14:28:14 +0000; Wow, this is getting tiresome. I had another voltage stabilizer in my TR4A go The first was my 39 y/o original, then a new one (actually a TR6 model) and then a new TR4A model. The original failed "o; /html/triumphs/2006-07/msg00048.html (9,327 bytes)
131. RE: [TR] Another dead voltage stabilizer! Why? (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2006 17:17:34 +0000; Well, the harness could be the culprit, definitely. It could be intermittently shorting somewhere. I will have to look carefully. I might even hook up my DVM set to "continuity" so it will beep at me; /html/triumphs/2006-07/msg00054.html (9,896 bytes)
132. [TR] follow up on several dead voltage stabilizers (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2006 18:57:50 -0400; Well, I looked at all 3 dead stabilizers. It looks as if they all failed for different reasons! The old original looks as if the contacts just got too dirty and failed to close. Gauges therefore were; /html/triumphs/2006-07/msg00106.html (8,000 bytes)
133. [TR] Vacuum Tubes and TR's (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 12:39:15 +0000; WHAT???? I thought we still only had spark transmitters for Morse code! When did this "voice" stuff happen? When I turn on the radio in my TR, all I get is "KRSSSSSH KRSSSSH KRSH KRSSSSH". This is j; /html/triumphs/2006-07/msg00330.html (7,032 bytes)
134. re:[TR] 2" SU's vs Triple 1/34"?? (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 23:57:04 -0400; as a potential replacement? And conversely, did any who opted >for the 2" SU's compare them to the triples? go. Interesting question. All else being equal, more choke area is better IF YOU NEED IT.; /html/triumphs/2006-08/msg00204.html (10,305 bytes)
135. Re: [TR] 2" SU's vs Triple 1/34"?? (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 12:44:35 +0000; You make a good point about the flow being cyclical rather than constant. I suppose the carbs need to be sized to accomodate the peak air flow rather than the average. Of course, the dampers on the; /html/triumphs/2006-08/msg00208.html (9,791 bytes)
136. RE:[TR] TR4a transmystery (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 12:49:33 +0000; Did you try resisting the turning on one shaft while turning the other. Slight friction may make both turn simultaneously when really in neutral. If the input and output actually turn 1:1 then the 4; /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00096.html (7,026 bytes)
137. Re: [TR] Heater/Water Valve Sealer (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 13:41:55 +0000; A word from someone who has been there..... Those silicone core wires are not made to work properly with the little screw-in "spears" (needle-screws) of the stock distributor cap. The silicone eventu; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00416.html (9,266 bytes)
138. [TR] source for "correct" color oil filter cannister paint (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 21:10:59 +0000; I want to paint my TR4A oil filter cannister. Where can I get the "correct" color? WHAT is the correct color? Something supplied in a spray can would be most convenient. I could make due with somethi; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00239.html (7,240 bytes)
139. Re: [TR] source for "correct" color oil filter canister paint (score: 1): Author: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam@comcast.net>; Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 21:48:42 -0500; Jim, I have had your suggestion, and one for Krylon satin jade green #3509. Probably either one of these is close enough. I will see what else comes up. I was also recommended to contact Matt Bakes a; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00255.html (8,970 bytes)
140. Re: [TR] source for "correct" color oil filter cannister paint (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 20:18:47 +0000; Thanks for this feedback. I have had a few votes for a color that is essentially Alpine Green. I had considered this before, but it always seemed "too green" to me, but I did NOT have access to anyth; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00298.html (8,375 bytes)

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