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Re: [TR] Heater/Water Valve Sealer

To: triumphs@autox.team.net (Triumphs List), barteet@mrl.ucsb.edu
Subject: Re: [TR] Heater/Water Valve Sealer
From: spamiam@comcast.net
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 13:41:55 +0000
A word from someone who has been there.....  Those silicone core wires are not 
made to work properly with the little screw-in "spears" (needle-screws) of the 
stock distributor cap.  The silicone eventually develops high resistance at the 
spear and you start having misfires.  Eventually it will not run at all.  

If you want to use those neat silicone core wires all you need to do is get the 
distributor cap that fits your distributor and has push-in terminals.

The cap from a 1968 - 1972? MGB will fit.

When my silicone core wires failed, it was very strange.  The car did not seem 
to misfire at idle at all.  At speed it occasionally "lurched", then ran fine.

Finally, it did that more often , then it lost power totally.  The engine 
sounded as if it was running, but I lost all power.  I pulled to the side of 
the road, and it fired right up.  I drove another mile and it happened again.  
Then I got too tricky for my own good.

I put the car in neutral as I coasted, switched off the engine, then re-started 
it as I coasted.  Well....  apparently the engine was dieseling, and had not 
entirely stopped rotating.  When I spun the starter, I jammed the starter into 
the flywheel, and it locked up solid.  I needed a tow after that!

The darned thing was, that if I had the chance to stop somewhere, I had spare 
wires and a cap/rotor in the trunk!!!

-Tony


>The wires are very nice 7mm silicone units with a good 90 degree boot on it. I
>just cut to length and stuck them in the top of the dizzy cap and secured them
>with the factory 'needle screws'. The boots were already fixed to the other
>end. I didn't have to crimp anything.


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