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1. Re: Replacing a thrust washer w/o removing engine? (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2005 17:35:19 -0500; Jeff, If you did mains, than I assume that you dropped the crank. Did you mike the crank, or just visually inspect it? Did you go back with standard size bearings? John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jb; /html/spitfires/2005-12/msg00002.html (8,086 bytes)
2. Re: Windshield removal (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 18:09:40 -0500; Dave, I assume you know that the gasket is like an "S" with one lip going over the windshield and the other lip going around the lip of the window frame. While you can remove the windshield by workin; /html/spitfires/2005-12/msg00027.html (7,998 bytes)
3. Re: Die before ........ (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Sat, 24 Dec 2005 20:22:33 -0500; Larry, Boy do I hear that!!! I'm getting older, the arthritis and other aliments seem to be catching up to me. :) I've been working on my Bricklin for 10 years, and still have a Spitfire and a Saab S; /html/spitfires/2005-12/msg00054.html (7,629 bytes)
4. test (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 19:15:59 -0500; John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1) Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 S; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00013.html (6,757 bytes)
5. Re: Body work suggestions (1) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 20:18:52 -0500; Dave, For starters, body work is very labor intensive, that's why it costs sooo much. There is nothing wrong with body filler! It has to be used in many places. That being said, you don't want to hav; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00014.html (9,195 bytes)
6. Re: Body work suggestions (2) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 20:19:48 -0500; No it's not a no, no. In fact, somethings you should grind out the filler, just to see how bad the damage really is underneath. When I restored my Volvo P1800, I noticed what I thought was a crack in; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00015.html (9,289 bytes)
7. Re: Body work suggestions (3) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 20:20:30 -0500; Why not try spraying the primer yourself? But, do you have a compressor? If so how big. I have a Craftsman 5hp (220V) 30 gal tank oil lubed, and it has to work to keep up with my air tools. Do you ha; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00016.html (9,797 bytes)
8. Re: Body work suggestions? (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2005 19:25:36 -0500; Dave, For starters, body work is very labor intensive, that's why it costs sooo much. There is nothing wrong with body filler! It has to be used in many places. That being said, you don't want to hav; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00017.html (14,817 bytes)
9. Re: Paint prices?? (Part 1) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 19:46:55 -0500; Barry, Welcome to sticker shock! I remember paying $3.60 a gal for 3602 lacquer thinner. It's about $20 / gal. He told you right, epoxy primer (grey) or polyeurathine primer. It is totally water proo; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00026.html (8,411 bytes)
10. Re: Paint prices?? (Part 2) (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2005 19:46:54 -0500; Depending on where you are, that's about right. I think I paid $160 for PPG 2K grey primer about 2 yrs ago. However, see if you can't find a DuPont vendor. They have come out with a less expensive li; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00027.html (9,141 bytes)
11. Re: Paint prices?? (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2005 13:14:54 -0500; Corolles is similar to POR-15. They are pretty good for sealing rust and painting chassis, and the bottom of floor pans. I wouldn't use it as a primer for the top of a body. You'd have to do too much; /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00033.html (7,628 bytes)
12. Happy Thanksgiving (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2005 08:54:50 -0500; Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Hope your families are fine and you get to spend a day with family and friends. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1); /html/spitfires/2005-11/msg00087.html (6,933 bytes)
13. Re: Vacuum Advance (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2005 19:05:29 -0400; Greg, The only thing I can think of with the 2 problems that you fixed, they were masking this problem. Is it possible that the dist. shaft bushings are bad, allowing the rotor button to move in rela; /html/spitfires/2005-08/msg00041.html (8,000 bytes)
14. Re: FW: "Locate engine in gearbox" huhh! (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 9:23:37 -0400; Nick, I can only think of 2 hints: 1. Get some longer bolts than the ones used to hold the xmission to the engine. You can try one of 1 methods here. Either set the xmission about in place then try; /html/spitfires/2005-08/msg00066.html (8,171 bytes)
15. Re: Another one bites the dust (score: 1): Author: <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2005 14:59:03 -0400; Mike, If you're in the US, you may have to fight them, but don't let them off easy. He wronged you! So they have to fix or replace your car. A new rear clip can be grafted to your existing car fairl; /html/spitfires/2005-08/msg00093.html (8,079 bytes)
16. Re: Morning Spitfire Adventure (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2005 13:52:11 -0400; Kirk, First off, let me say Outstanding!!!!! Your Spit since you were 14!!! I'm owned my Morgan since I was about 19, I'm now 57. Unfortunately, it hasn't been a daily driver. Wish I did drive it mor; /html/spitfires/2005-06/msg00034.html (9,588 bytes)
17. Re: loctite (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 18:12:55 -0400; axles to Larry, Yes, blue will work! Yes, you use that when you go to bare metal, or you can use something like DuPont 5017 metal conditioner or Oshpo. All have phosphoric acid in them. If you use 50; /html/spitfires/2005-06/msg00067.html (9,333 bytes)
18. Looking for G. TeriAnn Wakeman (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 19:00:31 -0400; Anyone have a current email address for TeriAnn? The old one I have for her, twakeman@cruzers.com, is no longer valid. TIA John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id:; /html/spitfires/2005-05/msg00005.html (7,111 bytes)
19. The Panel Doctor (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 19:38:42 -0400; I'm doing some work on my Morgan web page and trying to fix broken links. Anyone know what happened to "The Panel Doctor" website or have or know of a mirror of it? The old URL was http://www.paneldo; /html/spitfires/2005-05/msg00006.html (7,135 bytes)
20. Re: Looking for G. TeriAnn Wakeman (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 17:05:35 -0400; Thanks to everyone that sent me TeriAnn's email address. I found her and her new web site. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1) Phone: (757) 495-8229; /html/spitfires/2005-05/msg00013.html (7,006 bytes)

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