At 10:36 PM 11/1/2005 +0000, David Mayer wrote:
>- Priming: Spray it myself? Or leave that to the painter? Again...Brand
>names to use or not use? I figure i will at least try my hand at it in some
>un-noticable spots (trunk, underside of bonnet).
Why not try spraying the primer yourself? But, do you have a compressor?
If so how big. I have a Craftsman 5hp (220V) 30 gal tank oil lubed, and
it has to work to keep up with my air tools. Do you have a spray gun.
If not, I'd recommend the Harbor Freight gravity HVLP gun, regularily about
$100, but quite often on sale for about $50.
I really like that gun. Beats most of the syphon feed guns I've used.
You can either shoot it in your garage or in your yard. But if you shoot
outside, watch which way the wind is blowing, don't want to paint your
neighbors cars, and will get some bugs in it. But they aren't a problem.
When you sand before the next coat (either primer or color) they come right
off. Be sure to wear a cartridge type mask and be standing up wind.
If you shoot in your garage, you might want to cover the walls, tools, etc
with some plastic. Also if you are going to use the newer paints, you should
have an external air supply.
WARNING - WARNING - these new paints can kill you. I don't know how much
cynide (sp) is in them, but it is absorbed through your skin. Different
amounts effect different people differently. Also, if you get the fumes in
to your lungs, your lungs and solidify as the paint hardens. I know of a
couple that have been killed like this. And I know several painters that
ended up with problems from the various chemicals in the newer paints.
SO, JUST BE CAREFUL!!!!!
The more work you do yourself, the less you have to pay out to the painter.
Even try the top coat. The one nice thing about painting is you can sand
off your mistakes!
You might want to look around at your local community colleges. Many have
courses in auto body work, and painting. You supply the car and materials.
They show you how to do it. Worth the money, usually about $150ish. You
end up in a nice shop. Have someone to help you through the problem areas,
etc.
As to products, again I like DuPont, PPG is good also. In the past I've also
used Ditzler. I'm not a big fan of Sherman Williams, and I don't know why.
>Than sanding the primer? how fine should i go for before paint?
The newer paints don't cut into each other like the lacquers did. With
lacquer you could block everything with 600. But now 220 to 300 is fine
enough for the primer and gives the top coat something to bite to.
One thing you did not ask was base coat/clear coat vs single stage.
I personally don't like base coat/clear coats. I just see too many
clear coats breaking down. With the single stage you can buff the out.
The main advantage to the base/clear coat is the base dries very quickly
and you get your depth from the clear coat.
Hope this helps answer some of your questions.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1)
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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