At 10:36 PM 11/1/2005 +0000, David Mayer wrote:
>I also found out that the DPO decided to fill in the whole front end of the
>hood where the letters T-R-I-U-M-P-H are because it had been smashed in,
>Should i attempt to undo that? or is undoing body filller a no no?
No it's not a no, no. In fact, somethings you should grind out the filler,
just to see how bad the damage really is underneath. When I restored my
Volvo P1800, I noticed what I thought was a crack in the metal in the front
fender. I started to grind the paint away, and found it was filler that
had cracked. After grinding 1/2" or more deep in the filler I finally got
down to the metal. The fender was a real mess. Luckily I had a friend/
mentor that was able to beat and shrink the metal back to a usable form.
You may find that the damage to the nose is too hard to fix. Trying to get
something into the leading edge of the nose on the Spit, can be a real
problem. Then if you want the nose right you only have a couple of choices:
a. Either cut out the damaged section, and try to form your own and weld
it in.
b. Look for a replacement hood.
c. Recover the damaged are with bondo.
>- Sanding: 180-grit ok for the whole car before priming? Or should i go
>finer than that? I am not planning on taking the whole car down to bare
>metal
Depending on how much paint is there, 180 should do, you could go up to
220 or down to 120, depending on how much paint you want to remove and
how fast you want to remove it.
In doing my Bricklin, which has an acrylic skin, I used 36 grit on an
in-line sander to really smooth the body and give the sealer something to
bite into. Then I shot 1 coat of polyester primer - high build. Then I
blocked the entire body with 180 and shot another coat. I blocked that
with 300. Then a coat of 2K primer, again blocked with 300, another coat
of primer blocked with 300. Now I'm about ready to shoot the color coat.
On the mini van I'm doing, I started with the roof, which was badly rusted.
The paint was peeling - like Chryslers do. I started with 80 grit on a
Dual Action (DA) air sander. When that wasn't cutting too well, I went to
paint stripper to take as much as quick as possible. Then I went to a
4" grinder with a knotted wire wheel. Finally back to the DA and 80 grit.
After it was stripped, I shot a couple of coats of polyeurathine primer.
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1)
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
If you can read this - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
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