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41. RE: TR6 Headlight Switch - one ringy dingy (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 13:33:00 -0000; Yes, you should have a metal retaining plate that screws directly to the back of the wood, there. If you have to get another one, they do come in two slightly different sizes, depending on switch ma; /html/6pack/2002-01/msg00255.html (9,584 bytes)
42. RE: TR6 Headlight Switch - one ringy dingy (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:20:52 -0000; You can certainly get them at Rimmer Bros over here in England (product code 622222) - depending on whether the shipping costs make that impractical or not. Regards, Neil '70 TR6 CP52411; /html/6pack/2002-01/msg00265.html (8,769 bytes)
43. RE: Oil or Grease (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:02:40 -0000; BTW - has anyone tried/had any success with doing this heated LM grease idea ? Seems to me if you could only get the grease everywhere it should go, it might be a better option.. Regards, Neil Beesl; /html/6pack/2002-01/msg00336.html (7,905 bytes)
44. RE: Early cars (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:24:12 -0000; The rocker cover became painted along with quite a few other changes for the 1970 model range, from CP/CC50001 (along with the wheel change and windscreen painting). The production figures state that; /html/6pack/2002-01/msg00358.html (8,947 bytes)
45. RE: Should I? (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 10:09:01 -0000; Hi Tom, The "how much modification is too much" question is very much down to personal opinion (and is pretty hotly debated in the classic car magazines) but if there is such a thing as "acceptable"; /html/6pack/2001-11/msg00028.html (8,322 bytes)
46. RE: differential (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:54:45 -0000; Non-US TR5s and 6s have a 3.45 diff, which are readily available from Rimmer Brothers. However, they do say that "on the road the difference between 3.71 and 3.45 is barely noticeable". The only oth; /html/6pack/2001-11/msg00206.html (7,770 bytes)
47. RE: Any help/clubs for Jag XJ6's? (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:24:06 -0000; Hi Tim, My advice would be not to go near a 70's XJ6 unless it's 100% perfect ! Parts are reasonably cheap but XJ6's are not the easy-to-work-on basic design the TR6 is - they're complex machines, an; /html/6pack/2001-11/msg00310.html (8,230 bytes)
48. RE: Amp meter sticking (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 10:17:32 +0100; I also had this problem with my TR6's ammeter (a Lucas version) and did what Bernard suggests. Worked well after a couple of attempts. Regards, Neil Beesley '70 TR6 CP52411; /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00006.html (10,613 bytes)
49. RE: New Top Installation (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:01:12 +0100; I fitted one such Mohair hood - apart from the usual takes-twice-the-time-you-thought fitting experience, it's great, fitted perfectly first time, and really improves the look and feel of the car, I; /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00018.html (12,018 bytes)
50. Weight loss (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 11:20:17 +0100; Hi Listers, After reading an article about a lightened racing Vitesse at the weekend, I was idly pondering the idea of trying to even up the TR6's axle weight distribution by replacing the front wing; /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00056.html (6,796 bytes)
51. RE: Weight loss (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 11:30:47 +0100; Thanks for that, very interesting. The lack of water and muck protection does sound a little worrying. I once got some glass mat and polyester resin from a boat repairers - I wonder if you could add; /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00060.html (8,743 bytes)
52. RE: Inflation pressures (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 09:30:11 +0100; Upping those pressures and specifically the front pressures in relation to the back I find gives much better handling balance with more grip at the front to counteract that iron lump. With Pirelli P; /html/6pack/2001-10/msg00076.html (8,007 bytes)
53. RE: Triple Webers (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:54:02 +0100; Another option - if you can afford it - is to go for an EFI system; Lumenition and Weber both do them, and they're programmable via a laptop. Regards, Neil '70 TR6 CP52411; /html/6pack/2001-09/msg00033.html (8,112 bytes)
54. PI throttle body spindles (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:19:40 +0100; Firstly, apologies to the majority of listers, this is probably irrelevant to you.. but - has anyone with ever changed the butterflies and spindles in the throttle bodies on a PI car ? Is it easy (or; /html/6pack/2001-09/msg00039.html (6,861 bytes)
55. RE: Halogen dash bulbs? (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:10:25 +0100; The blue plastic inserts on mine have had melted just with the heat of standard bright bulbs, so I'd expect a bit of a gooey mess with halogens. The rest of the gauges are pretty solid inside and sho; /html/6pack/2001-09/msg00107.html (8,707 bytes)
56. RE: rebuilt rear shocks and misaligned front sway bar (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <Neil.Beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 10:44:28 +0100; Hi Walt, Those links have rubber inserts at the elbow, and when new, these allow some movement of the end that goes through the anti-roll bar. Obviously it's worth checking the bar's straight first,; /html/6pack/2001-09/msg00202.html (8,522 bytes)
57. RE: Indicator Modification (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:23:44 +0100; Should do - only problem might be that putting the buzzer in parallel with the lights will change the resistance of the electrical circuit. That might upset the flash rate of the lights, because I th; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00175.html (8,157 bytes)
58. Squealing front brakes (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 10:42:07 +0100; Hi Listers, I've recently fitted uprated front brake pads (EBC green stuff, new brake discs) and although they're excellent at stopping the car, they just will not stop squealing when warm - and it's; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00255.html (7,187 bytes)
59. RE: Squeling Front Brakes (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:21:41 +0100; I think the rotors/discs are good, they were fitted properly as you say, and the new pads seemed to bed in fine - in fact the squealing didn't start until I'd done a two hundred miles or so after fi; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00272.html (10,022 bytes)
60. RE: overdrive questions. (score: 1): Author: "Neil Beesley" <neil.beesley@securesult.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:01:29 +0100; There's not really any need to let off, if it's working as it should. I read somewhere that the main reason the early models (A-type) allowed overdrive on second gear was for racing, allowing a chang; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00384.html (7,322 bytes)

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