Search String: Display: Description: Sort:

Results:

References: [ +from:FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com: 78 ]

Total 78 documents matching your query.

21. Re: Securon Seat Belt Installation (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 12:41:30 +0600
By 90 degree turn, do you mean a 90' twist is needed in the new receptical to get it in the same alignment (vertical) as the original? Possibly one of the 'eye' type found in TR4 to early 6s would w
/html/6pack/2003-11/msg00050.html (7,520 bytes)

22. Re: What's wrong here (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 09:46:52 +0600
The speedo probably has 30K miles, since it's the post-72 type, but the car looks like it's done a few more miles. I see the VIN is listed as CF65906U (did they go that high???), but the photo of th
/html/6pack/2003-10/msg00050.html (8,515 bytes)

23. Re: From: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com> (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:15:56 +0600
You're right Vance, there are no vacuum pipes going to the EGR. Must be a '73+ head.
/html/6pack/2003-10/msg00059.html (6,765 bytes)

24. Re: .75" clutch master in an early TR6? (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:46:10 +0600
I once put a rebuilt .75 MC from a TR250 on my '72 6 and didn't notice any better clutch action. I still had to push the clutch all the way in to disengage. I just put a Spitfire actuating arm on th
/html/6pack/2003-09/msg00028.html (10,266 bytes)

25. Re: Red compound in interior light switch (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:31:11 +0600
I've seen that stuff too in Lucas switches - It must be some kind of dielectric grease. Sometimes it has turned to just dry crud that does more harm than good. I clean it out and replace with modern
/html/6pack/2003-09/msg00342.html (7,277 bytes)

26. Re: Brake MC Part? (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 22:05:29 +0600
I don't know what a new M/C reservoir should look like, but I just took the brake M/C off my '74 and there is a 'chip' or notch in the lip of the M/C at about the 7 o'clock position as viewed from t
/html/6pack/2003-09/msg00427.html (8,584 bytes)

27. Re: Brake MC Part? (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 07:47:09 +0600
Thanks for the encouragement Vance. I already ordered from TRF, so have nothing to lose by seeing if honing cleans it up. I rebuilt one about 10 years ago and it started leaking after about a month.
/html/6pack/2003-09/msg00436.html (7,471 bytes)

28. Re: Still Trouble Shooting (score: 1)
Author: "Jeffrey B. Fetner" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:02:40 +0600
I had nothing but trouble from very fine rust in the tank. It wasn't just in the tank but clogging the short metal line from the tank output. I removed and cleared that, but it had clogged the first
/html/6pack/2003-09/msg00485.html (8,161 bytes)

29. Re: TRF Road Trip Music (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 12:47:51 +0600
Great tunes all - Even if the head was back on (#2 exhaust valve stem worn down to the keepers) and the pan back up (R & R thrust washer, then get drain plug out since DPO rounded if off), I'd have a
/html/6pack/2003-08/msg00091.html (8,521 bytes)

30. Re: What makes an HE engine (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 21:23:41 +0600
Dave & List, I've got a spare "HE" engine I bought from a wrecking yard about 10 years ago. As best i know, it was an option on early TR6s. This one was from a '69 with a 3.7 rear end. The head is su
/html/6pack/2003-08/msg00156.html (7,848 bytes)

31. Record TR6 parts price? (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:14:00 +0600
I was looking at TR6 stuff on e-bay and ran across what must be the world record for TR6 parts: $1,225 for a set of NOS TR6 rear light units. I admit they are perfect and all, but that's a lot of do
/html/6pack/2003-07/msg00000.html (6,647 bytes)

32. Re: Tools (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 20:18:35 +0600
So in whose toolchest will we find the BA screwdriver, and what would its companion tool be? Jeff 74 CF13816U
/html/6pack/2003-07/msg00069.html (7,118 bytes)

33. Re: How do it know? Further electrical questions (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:17:46 +0600
I haven't seen one of the newer sockets you describe, but having a tab for the ground eliminates the problem of getting a reliable ground connection through the socket 'finger' prongs and the lamp b
/html/6pack/2003-07/msg00677.html (8,461 bytes)

34. Re: transmission oil (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:01:46 +0600
I cut a hole in the transmission cover opposite the fill plug - 3", same size as the one for the driveshaft U-jount grease access. I can get to it while the car is on its wheels. Jeff '74 CF13816U e
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00035.html (7,842 bytes)

35. Re: Dismantling a tachometer (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:51:11 +0600
The needle is just a list "press-fit" on the shaft. Once the tach innerworkings are out of the case, carefully hold the large aluminum plate (on which the shaft is mounted) and gently twist the need
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00054.html (8,007 bytes)

36. Re: Dismantling a tachometer (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 06:50:07 +0600
The needle is a light "push on" fit on the tapered shaft - just bumping it while cleaning shouldn't move it. But to get it back to normal, remove the 2 screws on the back and remove the tach mechani
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00076.html (8,600 bytes)

37. Re: Running Cool (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 13:16:54 +0600
Heater? I thought it was the emergency engine cooler..... Jeff '74 CF13816U -- Original Message -- From: "Larry Alt" <LAlt@whiteco.com> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>; <CreamerM@cintas.com> Sent: Friday,
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00122.html (8,388 bytes)

38. Re: brush nonsense (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 15:05:10 +0600
I had a similiar problem with the field coil brushes on my TR4 starter. I just cut the braided copper leads about 1/4" from the bar that they are bonded to. I cut the new brushes at the same place a
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00169.html (9,903 bytes)

39. Re: brush nonsense (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:26:47 +0600
Did you replace the front & rear bronze bushings? On mine the rotation and weight of the armature had worn the rear bushing oval and the armature had lowered. It had started rubbing on the lower fie
/html/6pack/2003-06/msg00228.html (9,007 bytes)

40. Re: Accelerator shaft bushings (score: 1)
Author: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 21:58:41 +0600
I installed two TRF grey bushings a few weeks ago, and have no trick other than brute force and perserverance. I'm trying to forget the experience, but here's how (I think) I did it. - I pushed it i
/html/6pack/2003-05/msg00463.html (10,239 bytes)

Current List: 21 - 40
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4]
This search system is powered by Namazu