I was only going from memory regarding the Sears tool. The Sears tool may
have been built such that it would have worked better than I described. I
did check my Sears tool catalog and couldn't see that they were still
available, so went to Napa. But the Napa version I bought to replace it was
nearly worthless!
The Napa tool knurls just flattened out so as to make the tool unusable.
However, the Snap On replacement worked great. Napa did take it back and
refunded my money.
I used the stud puller to remove all eight of the rear wheel studs in order
to install the new and longer steel wheel studs. Even though I used my angle
die grinder to grind off the swaged area of the stud, it was a B---H! You
are right, I tried a pipe wrench too but wasn't able to close the jaws close
enough to get a decent bite, due to the small stud size I was working with.
Why Standard Triumph used those easy to replace "press-in" studs on the
front and those damn "screw-in and swage" studs in the rear, I will never
know!!
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2005 10:37 AM
To: TR List
Subject: RE: TR6 stuck head-request for help
> Because the knurled
> surface had the knurls parallel to the axis of the tool it wore out the
> gripping surface very quickly.
Interesting. I'm still using the one I think I got from Sears almost 30
years ago, and it has almost no wear at all. But I wouldn't describe the
gripping surface as 'knurled', instead it has milled and hardened teeth like
a pipe wrench. It's only held together by a ball & detent (like found on a
ratchet & socket), so it's easy to disassemble it and turn the knurled cam
over to bring a second set of teeth into play. But I've never found it
necessary.
Speaking of which, a pipe wrench actually makes a pretty good stud remover,
if you can find room to swing it.
Randall
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