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re: How to moth ball a project vehicle?

To: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: re: How to moth ball a project vehicle?
From: Doug Hamilton <douglasehamilton@shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:27:36 -0600
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.0.2) Gecko/20021120 Netscape/7.01
Mike,
My TR3 has been dipped, stripped, and phosphated as well. And due to two 
members of my family have major health problems I haven't touched the 
car in 18 months or more and there is no sign of any rust forming any 
where on my TR3. But the car is stored in a dry heated garage and I live 
in an area where the humidity rarely goes as high as 40%. One thing to 
keep in mind is that most primers are porous and will do more to hide 
rust forming than they do to protect against it the exception being any 
epoxy primer most of which seal the metal better than a top coat does. 
In your situation if you feel you must prime it with something I would 
look into using a weld through primer in the areas that you will be 
doing more work and depending on the manufactures information on the 
weld through primer maybe shooting the whole tub with it.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

>Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 19:00:27 -0700
>From: Mike Lang <mlang@easystreet.com>
>Subject: How to moth ball a project vehicle?
>
>I now have a dilema. The body tub for my TR3 has been dipped and 
>stripped, and I have partially completed its restoration. The sills and 
>floors are ready to weld in, but there is quit a bit of rust repair left 
>to be done. At the rate that I have been going, there is probably a 
>little more than a month's worth of work left before it's ready for primer.
>
>We just stumbled acrossed an excelent oportunity on a foreclosed piece 
>of property which has a fairly new house but no shop. It took some 
>negotiation, but the bank took our low-ball offer. I am now stuck in the 
>situation of having to put my project car in mothballs for six months or 
>so while we move and I build a shop. The up side is that now I have the 
>oportunity to go from working in a two car garage to the 30 X 60 shop 
>that I always wanted.
>
>My body tub has been treated with an iron phosphate coating, so it is 
>showing no signs if rust. I don't however, think that it would be smart 
>to leave it for six months or more without further rust protection. I 
>have considered a light coat of primer for protection, but the down side 
>is having to sand all of the areas that need welding when I start work 
>on it again.
>
>Any one have any suggestions as to how I should best protect the bare 
>metal while in storage?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike
>
>1956 TR3
>1960 TR3A

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