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Re: Pinion Seal

To: Russ Locke <wtrrtw@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pinion Seal
From: "Bob Westerdale" <Bob.Westerdale@ametek.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 09:34:23 -0400 |January 7, 2002) at 09/24/2002 09:35:10 AM, Serialize complete at 09/24/2002 09:35:10 AM
Cc: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Russ-
        Pinion Seal? Piece of cake....
        Put a pair of jackstands under the body, ( not the R. Axle) so the 
rear hangs on the leaf springs and droops down a bit.  disconnect the Rear 
driveshaft Ujoint,  put another jackstand ( a tall one) under the 
driveshaft to get it up out of the way.   The pinion's flange has a cotter 
pin,  remove it.   I don't remember the exact size of the pinion nut, but 
it's around 1-1/8" or so.  Set the E-Brake, and give the nut a twist. The 
pinion flange is not on a tapered spline, so generally heroic measures are 
not needed to pull it off.  ( it's a straight spline)  Once you've cleaned 
up the gook, ( taking care to keep it out of the bearing....) you'll see 
the pinion seal.   It's  made of fairly cheesy steel, with a felt ring ( 
possibly rubber on a TR4??)  get a couple of your larger screwdrivers and 
prying devices, and have at it.   Be sure not to damage the splines on the 
pinion shaft, and don't mangle the metal lip on the diff housing that 
captures the pinion seal.  You'll have to use a little elbow grease and 
perhaps even a few expletives, but it should come out without any real 
agony.   Clean the  ID surfaces  of the seal's mounting bore,   and tap in 
the new seal, preferably using the tool of your choice that will not 
deform the seal.   Nothing fancy.   Next, carefully examine the pinion 
flange  in the area where the seal normally rides.
If it is badly grooved, it might be time for a Speedi-sleeve ( basically a 
thin metal tube that 'replaces' the worn surface),  but I've always been 
able to clean up the surface with some scotchbrite or a bit of 400 grit 
wet-or-dry paper with some light oil.   Reinstall the flange- it will take 
a light effort to push through the seal-  add the pinion nut, (torque to 
??ft/lbs?)  the cotter pin and the driveshaft. It is a good idea to use 
fresh nyloks or lockwashers on the driveshaft bolts, or at a minimum clean 
them up real well and tighten to spec. Probably a good time for fresh Diff 
lube,  grease the U-joint and you're done. ( I think....)      I did this 
job on my 3A this spring, took about 2 hours.   Biggest part of the job 
was scraping the Eisenhower Dirt off the underside....   It had been 
leaking for decades!
Good Luck,
        Bob Westerdale
        59 3A  TS36967




Russ Locke <wtrrtw@yahoo.com>
Sent by: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
09/23/02 08:53 PM
Please respond to Russ Locke

 
        To:     triumphs@autox.team.net
        cc: 
        Subject:        Pinion Seal


Hello from a newbie TR4 owner.  (Newbie to this list.  I've owned two
other 4s, one a TR4A IRS, both many years ago.)

I just purchased a '63 that may be a '64 (another story) TR4 that has
a great body but needs a bit of work elsewhere.  The PPO or someone
replaced some of the interior with TR4A stuff so I'm slowly getting
it back right.

I'm about to attempt to replace the pinion seal on my '64 TR4. 
Anything special I should know?  The diff is leaking pretty good but
is ok in all other ways (I think/hope)so don't want to pull it just
to do the seal.

Russ Locke
San Antonio, TX
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
http://sbc.yahoo.com

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