Hi Bob,
Hadn't really thought about that - thanks for bringing it up.
I haven't put in any shims... the torque arm prevents axle windup so it's not
going to go far from the static setting, right? Since I raised the rear end 1
inch from its previous situation, and I didn't change anything on the torque
arm installation, I've effectively added about half a degree of preload in the
downward direction (to a first approximation, one inch rise over a 57 inch run
is one degree). The rubber snubber on the torque arm will prevent any further
motion outside of about a 1/2 inch range unless something breaks.
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html
These guys say 1 to 2 1/2 degrees for a four-link and 6 to 7 degrees for a
leaf spring suspension. Currie (quoted in the article) says 2 degrees, other
guy says it depends on the horsepower...
A 2 degree wedge on the 4 1/2" spacer would be about 3/16" thicker on one end
than it is on the other. If I have to futz with the setup for any reason then
I'll look at putting a wedge in.
Thanks,
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Hokanson [mailto:tgrrr@peoplepc.com]
> Sent: August 23, 2010 2:53 PM
> To: Tigers; Smit, Theo
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Body Modifications for larger Wheels
>
> Have never seen nylon lowering blocks. Made mine out of solid 1" steel.
> On another related note: Have you calculated what angle shims you need
> to
> get the proper pinion angle? Would 2 degrees down be about right for a
> street driven Tiger?
>
> Bob H
>
>
>
>
> > On a slightly related topic I just finished putting 2" axle-to-
> leafspring
> > spacers in, to replace the 1" ones that were there. Now it sits more
> like
> > I'd
> > first intended when going to the whole 16" wheel thing.
> >
> > Items of note:
> > The leaf spring centerbolts have a 9/16" diameter head. To properly
> locate
> > the
> > axle on the spacer and the spacer on the spring, I first drilled a
> 3/8"
> > size
> > hole in the 2 x 2 1/2" piece of steel tubing, top to bottom, then
> opened
> > the
> > bottom one to 9/16". The top hole got a 3/8" bolt with the hex head
> turned
> > down to 9/16" round.
> > The U-bolts should have a 2 5/8" inside diameter. I got some 1/2"
> size
> > ones,
> > then drilled the axle plate to suit.
> >
> > One curiosity: The 1" spacers that were in there, were made of nylon
> and
> > looked like they were roughly cut with a bandsaw. The centerbolt hole
> was
> > drilled 9/16, but the other side had a 5/16" shank, round head
> Phillips
> > screw
> > in it with about a 1/2" head, so that there was some slack (and then
> the
> > nylon
> > allowed some distortion too). Was this piece a one-off fabrication by
> one
> > of
> > the PO's or did someone offer a lowering kit like this at some point?
> >
> > Theo
> >
>
>
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