Patyrick, this is all based on my Mark III experience.
Window cranks: My preferred method to remove uses an awl with an L-shaped
point (Craftsman tool #?). You basically push the black plastic trim ring
in towards the trim panel, then you should see a hole, about 3/32", with a
pin in it. You insert the awl or nail or some such object into the hole and
push the pin out of the other side. The handle assembly will then slide
off. Same deal with door handles. On reassembly, it is the same, except I
use a pair of forceps to clamp onto the pin to insert it in the hole.
Rubber seal (outer door waist seal): First, lower the window down as far
as it will go. This seal is held in by seven clips that must be pushed down
away from the top of the door. The same L-shaped awl is used here too. The
only problem is the clips fall to the bottom of the door cavity, so a magnet
is useful to pick them up. Reassembly is done by clamping forceps on the
clip and aligning them with the indentations in the seal. Hook the clip
over the seal edge and the door's metal edge. Pull up quickly. This gets
the clip started, but the forceps usually slip off leaving the clip only
half way on. Hook the L-shaped awl under the clip and pull up to slide the
clip the rest of the way home. More complicated to explain than to do.
Note: If you are replacing the seals with new make sure your window glass
is firmly mounted in the bottom of the assembly . If it isn't, the pressure
against the glass by the new seal will "clamp" the glass to the door and the
glass will dislodge in the assembly bottom. I removed my glass, cleaned the
bottom and side tracks. There is a rubber strip that the bottom of the
glass sets into. I put a strip of black, cloth tape (hockey tape) along the
bottom edge of the glass to make it a tighter fit. Works much better. Also
when refitting your glass, make sure you check it with the window up to see
that it fits up to the windscreen frame correctly.
WHEEL ARCHES / STRIKE PLATES: No experience with these.
FOAMING ROCKER PANELS: I would think it would do more harm than good. If
it was not tightly sealed to the metal, it would leave a small gap that
would trap moisture and with reduced air movement it would take much longer
to dry out. Just my WAG.
Terry Banbury
> ----------
> From: Bowen, Patrick A RP2[SMTP:PABowen@sar.med.navy.mil]
> Reply To: Bowen, Patrick A RP2
> Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 1:39 PM
> To: 'spitfires@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Restoration Questions
>
>
> Couple quick questions towards the restoration in a hurry project.
>
> How do I get the Window cranks/handles off?
> How do I get the rubber seal at the top of the door off?
> How hard is it to recover the wheel arches yourself with regular vinyl?
> How do I get the door strike plates off? (yes I know you unscrew them, but
> I
> don't have king kong at my house)
>
> Has anyone ever contemplated filling up the rocker panels with foam
> insulation (like you get at home depot in the aerosol can) I was thinking
> that might help keep moisture out, or would it suck it in??
>
> Thanks
> Patrick Bowen
>
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