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I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I used a
router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door through my
table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge side and about
1/16" off the latch side.
I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten wood"
and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your (possibly new)
router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for flattening live edge
slabs and the like.
Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some
plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M
Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the door,
then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a pass, move the
jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another pass, etc.
You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but
here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62 (Orange
big box has them for ~$100).
I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2" aluminum
rectangle tube for the rails,
--
__
Miq Millman miq@bigllama.com
Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions
On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <
shop-talk@autox.team.net> wrote:
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come
> up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to =
put up a
> pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in next to a=
tall
> kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into=
a
> pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the
> cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to m=
ake out of tongue
> and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decid=
ed
> that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try=
something
> different. I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and
> decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday t=
o see if
> they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
> holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30
> shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.
> They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they ar=
e
> 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona=
te them
> back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by
> tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. =
I will
> try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it doesn=E2=
=80=99t
> work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - is to try to narro=
w
> the doors a bit. This *should* be possible, since the stiles and rails
> are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about na=
rrowing the entire
> width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
> currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets
> and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=
=E2=80=9D.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway =
to use,
> and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I would be
> happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. We are
> probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that m=
ake my
> wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool. So,
> what does the group think? Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each=
face of
> these doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
> another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any rando=
m
> gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
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>
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>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I just did something similar:=C2=A0 had a door that was to=
o wide, so I used a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then =
ran the door through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of =
the hinge side and about 1/16" off the latch side.<div><br></div><div>=
I think you can do something similar.=C2=A0 Look up "router jig to fla=
tten wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide a=
s your (possibly new) router base.=C2=A0 Woodworkers use this kind of rig f=
or flattening live edge slabs and the like.</div><div><br></div><div>Here&#=
39;s a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using some plyw=
ood and simple rails:=C2=A0=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DJ0SDvKHcL5M</a></div><div=
><br></div><div>Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig=
on the door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time.=C2=
=A0 Make a pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make anoth=
er pass, etc.</div><div><br></div><div>You might not even need to finish th=
e final surface with a plane, but here's a chance to get a nice jack pl=
ane, like the Stanley No. 62=C2=A0 (Orange big box has them for ~$100).</di=
v><div><br></div><div>I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, whe=
re I used a 1x2" aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,</div><div><br =
clear=3D"all"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmai=
l=3D"gmail_signature">--<br>__<br>Miq Millman=C2=A0=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto=
:miq@bigllama.com" target=3D"_blank">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>Tualatin, OR=
=C2=A0 Big Llama Productions<br></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 22, 2019=
at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk <<a href=3D"mailto:shop-talk@autox.t=
eam.net">shop-talk@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rg=
b(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;">=
<div>I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have co=
me up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with.=C2=A0 I ne=
ed to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will =
slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet.=C2=A0 So, not exactly a pocket doo=
r, but it needs to fit into a pocket.=C2=A0 When we designed/installed the =
kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=
=9D door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or possib=
ly shiplap.=C2=A0 However, my wife has lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=
=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try something different.=
=C2=A0 I wanted to install something temporary while she shops and decides =
and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if t=
hey had anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays=
.=C2=A0 To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker s=
tyle doors for $50 each that would look really good in the house.=C2=A0 The=
y are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 3=
/4=E2=80=9D thick.=C2=A0 I bought them anyway, figuring I could always dona=
te them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them work.=C2=A0</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>There is a possibility that I might be able to make =
the doors work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about =
1 5/8=E2=80=9D.=C2=A0 I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are th=
at precise.=C2=A0 It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-d=
onating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit.=C2=A0 This <i>shou=
ld</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=
=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of =
the door. =C2=A0</div><div>(For what it is worth, I should add here that wh=
ile the doors are currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the ma=
tch the cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=
=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I currently have a=
good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway to use, and a cheap =
HF hand planer that might work.=C2=A0 But, of course, I would be happy to b=
uy a new one or another tool that would do the job.=C2=A0 We are probably l=
ooking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife =
happy, so there is lots of room in the budget for a new tool.=C2=A0 So, wha=
t does the group think?=C2=A0 Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each=
face of these doors.=C2=A0 Is an electric hand planer my best option, or i=
s there another way?=C2=A0 They will be painted in the end, so I can fill i=
n any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!</div=
><div><br></div><div>Jim</div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"; rel=3D"norefer=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>
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