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I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and have come =
up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help with. I need to =
put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one of which will slide in =
next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket door, but it =
needs to fit into a pocket. When we designed/installed the kitchen =
cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D =
door, which I planned to make out of tongue and groove boards or =
possibly shiplap. However, my wife has lately decided that she =
doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door and wants to try =
something different. I wanted to install something temporary while she =
shops and decides and we went to Habitat for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore =
yesterday to see if they had anything that would cheaply do the trick, =
at least for the holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, =
really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really =
good in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only =
problem is that they are 1 3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, =
figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good =
way to make them work.=20
There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work by =
tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 5/8=E2=80=9D. =
I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that precise. It it =
doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides re-donating the doors - =
is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This should be possible, since the =
stiles and rails are 4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am =
not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door. =20
(For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are =
currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the =
cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D=
x 29=E2=80=9D. =20
I currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway =
to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of course, I =
would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do the job. =
We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of 8=E2=80=99 =
doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in the budget =
for a new tool. So, what does the group think? Can I safely take about =
1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. Is an electric hand planer =
my best option, or is there another way? They will be painted in the =
end, so I can fill in any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth =
and even.
As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
Jim=
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house =
and have come up with a problem I would like the group=E2=80=99s help =
with. I need to put up a pair of 8=E2=80=99 x 30" barn doors, one =
of which will slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not =
exactly a pocket door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we =
designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets for a 1 =
3/8=E2=80=9D - 1 1/2=E2=80=9D door, which I planned to make out of =
tongue and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has =
lately decided that she doesn=E2=80=99t like the look of the board door =
and wants to try something different. I wanted to install =
something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to Habitat =
for Humanity=E2=80=99s ReStore yesterday to see if they had anything =
that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the holidays. To our =
surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice, 8x30 shaker style doors =
for $50 each that would look really good in the house. They are =
solid wood, I think poplar, and the only problem is that they are 1 =
3/4=E2=80=9D thick. I bought them anyway, figuring I could always =
donate them back if there wasn=E2=80=99t a good way to make them =
work. </div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors =
work by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1 =
5/8=E2=80=9D. I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are =
that precise. It it doesn=E2=80=99t work, my only option - besides =
re-donating the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This =
<i class=3D"">should</i> be possible, since the stiles and rails are =
4=E2=80=9D and 8=E2=80=9D, respectively, so I am not talking about =
narrowing the entire width of the door. </div><div class=3D"">(For =
what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are currently =
8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the cabinets and door =
opening and will be cutting them down to about 84=E2=80=9D x 29=E2=80=9D. =
</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I =
currently have a good bench top planer that I can=E2=80=99t see anyway =
to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of =
course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that would do =
the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for a pair of =
8=E2=80=99 doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of room in =
the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group think? =
Can I safely take about 1/8=E2=80=9D off each face of these doors. =
Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there another =
way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in any random =
gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.</div><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">As always, thanks for any advice and =
Happy Holidays to all!</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Jim</div></body></html>=
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