After you remove the pan, check to see that it is uniformly flat. There are
usually high spots at the bolt holes from over tightening. These should be
carefully knocked down, then the pan put on a very flat surface to see if it
rocks or there are any gaps which need to be knocked down.
I usually glue the gasket to the pan with RTV. Run an even bead all around
the pan and let it skin over before placing the gasket on the pan. Invert
the pan on the flat surface and let it sit for 5 min. or so before
installing on the engine. Turn the pan upright and wipe a light coat of
motor oil on the mating surface before bolting to the block. This will aid
in any future removal. Tighten
evenly, chris crossing back & forth around the pan. Do not over tighten.
This is what causes the high spots and later, leaks. This is the same
procedure I use for valve covers.
Jim Stuart
Reply to <jimbb88@comcast.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Glenn
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 10:24 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: Rover 3.9 Oil Pan Sealing
I'm pulling the engine this weekend to replace the oil
pan gasket to try to fix a couple of the small oil
leaks. I haven't had much luck getting a good seal
when replacing the pan with the engine in the car. I
also want to take a good look at my clutch, so an
engine pull is called for.
What is the current thinking on the best way to get a
good seal on a 3.9 oil pan? Use the cork gasket dry?
Cork gasket with permatex? Permatex only? I have
read that some of the newer Rovers only have Permatex
gaskets.
Thanks!
Glenn
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