Blake,
Your points are well taken, but I haven't had any of those problems in
practice.
I mounted a Moss badge bar with accessory lights last winter after
driving my TD since 1970 without that setup. This summer I drove it at
least 2000 - 2500 miles, 1500 of which was to Gatlinburg and back. I
used my driving and fog lights (at different times) in the mountains of
Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennesee with no perceptible vibration of
the lights. I also drove at all different speeds without any
difference in the way that the car's cooling system worked. In other
words, no overheating problems.
I guess your last point depends on who or what runs into the front of
your car, but I've had no problem with the lights jumping out and
hitting me as I walk by, the way that the ends of the bumpers do.
I'm familiar with the type of mounts that you mention, but the down side
of those are that they require an extra non-original hole to be drilled
through the apron and the frame extensions below. Your way worked for
the brand of lights that you mounted, but would be a problem with Lucas
SLR/SFTs.
If anyone would like a picture of either of those mountings, I can email
them one.
Charlie
Bullwinkle wrote:
>I'vve seen two different styles of badgebars/lamp brackets. The most
>common is the type Moss sells which mount to the bumper bolts. It has
>tabs for mounting the standard SLR/SFT lamps. There are several
>aspects of these I don't care for. 1) The lamps tend to vibrate as the
>bar is mounted by tabs and then the lamps are also. Thus the lamps
>tend to flicker up and down. 2) TDs don't cool well, and it is my
>opinion that they can interfere with the air flow through the
>radiator. 3) The lamps are well exposed and easily knocked out of
>allignment.
>
>A second type isn't seen very often and was produced back in the
>Fifties. It mounted to the apron and fender using the existing chrome
>screw and an additional bolt.
>
>As I don't want anything blocking the air flow to the radiator, I
>somewhat followed this second style of mounting to mount a fog and
>driving lamp. I removed the chrome screws and mounted my lamps there.
>However the lamps I used were RayDyots which use a small bolt rather
>than the hollow spigot of the SLR/SFT types. By using a longer bolt I
>was able to pass the bolt through the existing captured nut and placed
>the proper nut on the bolt. It was somewhat difficult getting the nut
>in place. I have since gotten a BSF bolt of the same size as the
>original chrome screw and then bolt it using the existing captered
>nut. This location also has the advantage of not blocking air flow to
>the radiator, and they are located well back so that they don't get
>knocked out of allignment.
>
>Regards,
>Blake
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