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Re: British Number Plates, Badge Bars and Driving Lights

Subject: Re: British Number Plates, Badge Bars and Driving Lights
From: Charlie Baldwin <>
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 08:32:29 -0400

Your points are well taken, but I haven't had any of those problems in 
I mounted a Moss badge bar with accessory lights last winter after 
driving my TD since 1970 without that setup.  This summer I drove it at 
least 2000 - 2500 miles, 1500 of which was to Gatlinburg and back.  I 
used my driving and fog lights (at different times) in the mountains of 
Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennesee with no perceptible vibration of 
the lights.  I also drove at all different  speeds without any 
difference in the way that the car's cooling system worked.  In other 
words, no overheating problems.
I guess your last point depends on who or what runs into the front of 
your car, but I've had no problem with the lights jumping out and 
hitting me as I walk by, the way that the ends of the bumpers do.
I'm familiar with the type of mounts that you mention, but the down side 
of those are that they require an extra non-original hole to be drilled 
through the apron and the frame extensions below.  Your way worked for 
the brand of lights that you mounted, but would be a problem with Lucas 
If anyone would like a picture of either of those mountings, I can email 
them one.


Bullwinkle wrote:

>I'vve seen two different styles of badgebars/lamp brackets. The most
>common is the type Moss sells which mount to the bumper bolts. It has
>tabs for mounting the standard SLR/SFT lamps. There are several
>aspects of these I don't care for. 1) The lamps tend to vibrate as the
>bar is mounted by tabs and then the lamps are also. Thus the lamps
>tend to flicker up and down. 2) TDs don't cool well, and it is my
>opinion that they can interfere with the air flow through the
>radiator. 3) The lamps are well exposed and easily knocked out of
>A second type isn't seen very often and was produced back in the
>Fifties. It mounted to the apron and fender using the existing chrome
>screw and an additional bolt.
>As I don't want anything blocking the air flow to the radiator, I
>somewhat followed this second style of mounting to mount a fog and
>driving lamp. I removed the chrome screws and mounted my lamps there.
>However the lamps I used were RayDyots which use a small bolt rather
>than the hollow spigot of the SLR/SFT types. By using a longer bolt I
>was able to pass the bolt through the existing captured nut and placed
>the proper nut on the bolt. It was somewhat difficult getting the nut
>in place. I have since gotten a BSF bolt of the same size as the
>original chrome screw and then bolt it using the existing captered
>nut. This location also has the advantage of not blocking air flow to
>the radiator, and they are located well back so that they don't get
>knocked out of allignment.

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