Ron:
I'll work on the pattern soon. But in the meantime, I'll
describe the fitment of the heater as done in my car. This most
likely was a MG dealer installation and could have been installed
at the time of sale.
I removed the heater may years ago, but still have it. It was an
Arnolt design and does look just like those small ones in
JCWhitneys catalog. I don't exactly remember the precise way the
heater was spliced into the bypass. By that, I don't remember if
the bypass hose was removed, or the hose cut and the ends of the
heater hoses inserted into the bypass. I believe the bypass hose
was just removed. The short elbow on the thermostat housing was
retained.
The heater had mounting studs on the same side as the inlet and
outlet water pipes. So, it was mounted to the underside of the
tool box with the nipples projecting up into the tool box. The
hoses were taped to the radiator steady rod and entered the right
end of tool box on the passengers side.
The original thermostat had the inner parts removed, and a new US
style added just above the old housing. The flange on this
thermostat was the same diameter as the outside of the housing so
when the upper hose is put on, it is held in place. The removal
of the guts of the original housing was necessary to keep the
original thermostat cut off plate from shutting off the water to
the heater when the 'stat opened.
I didn't like this setup for several reasons:
1) Loss of space in the tool box
2) Hoses in the way for working on the carbs
3) Too many holes in the body
4) There was no way of shutting off the water to the heater.
5) Water cannot be shut off to the heater as it now performs the
duty of the bypass.
Not too long after getting the car I made the following changes:
1) Moved the water inlet hose to the heater to a plate with a
faucet bib on it which replacee the plate on the rear of the
head.
2) Replaced part of the return hose with tubing which ran between
the carbs and the head. This return line went to a T fitting
installed in the bypass hose.
This wasn't really any better as the back of the head is one of
the cooler places to get the water for an XPAG engine.
If I were doing it again, I would remove the small elbow on the
thermostat and replace it with a new fabricated piece. It would
be basically a T with upper part of the T sticking straight out,
and the lower leg used to connect to the bypass. The water
passage in the thermostat would be cleaned up some to permit
better flow. The horizontal part of the T would be connected by
hoses/pipes to the inlet nipple of the heater. Because the
bypass is now at right angles to the normal flow, water would be
more prone to flow into the heater lines if the heater is on. An
even better way would be to use a Y adapter with a diverter or
shut offs. In the winter, all water in the bypass system would
go through the heater. In the summer, the valves shut off/divert
the water and it doesn't flow through the heater. The water
return would either go back to the lower radiator return line, or
to the back of the head. If the return went to the back of the
head, a shut off similar to what I had used could be employed. I
don't know which position for the return line would give the
greatest flow: The back of the head, or the lower radiator hose
line. Most likely the lower radiator hose line.
Blake
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