Burt,
The engine must be supported at the back end while the gearbox is being
removed. I usually use a small scissors jack with a piece of plywood to
support the engine. It helps everything to remove and replace easier if the
engine is lifted slightly higher at the back than it would normally sit.
(maybe 1/2")
I place the car in such a position that my lifting tackle can drop
vertically right behind the windscreen and dash (protect with an old towl or
blanket). I wrap a rope sling around the gearbox/overdirive adapter plate.
This is a good balance point for the gearbox assembly. With everything
unbolted, support the gearbox weight with your tackle and sling. Then pull
the gearbox straight back about 5" and with the heel of your hand on the
prop shaft flange, you can literally turn the whole thing sideways in the
car with the bell housing facing the right side of the car. Then unsling it
so it can sit across the floor. Two guys can carefully lift the gearbox
assembly out of the way.
To reinstall the gearbox, set it back across the floor. Sling it in the same
position around the o/d adapter plate, lift, swing it into position, and
place it in fourth gear. Then as you push the assembly forward and into the
clutch cover, you can rotoate the prop shaft flange to engage the clutch
splines. Once you feel them engage, you should be able to shove the whole
assembly home and start your bolts.
Important note: Two of the bell housing bolts have a special machined
shoulder. They serves as alignment dowels that must go back into the bell
housing to engine mounting plate at 11 and 5 o'clock positions respectively.
Other than the actual lifting of the gearbox out of the car to gain good
access to the clutch assembly, you should be able to do all the rest of the
job yourself.
I would strongly advise replacing all components (clutch driven plate,
pressure plate and release bearing) with correct Borg and Beck components.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: <ahy3000@comcast.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:14 AM
Subject: Replacing clutch on BJ7
> All,
>
> I'm attempting to build up my courage and replace my clutch this Fall. I
> want to confirm that I can pull this after removing the trans tunnel and
> prop shaft WITHOUT pulling the engine. I saw a thread about using two
> floor jacks sitting on the floor pan to raise the tranny.
>
> Are there any precautions from those who've done this (many times) before?
> E.g does the engine need to be supported from below? Any "gotcha's"?
>
> How about sources? Was planning on Moss for the cover, pressure plate and
> throwout bearing and alignment tool. Anything else I should do "while I'm
> in there"?
>
> TIA
>
> BW
>
> --
> Burt Weiner
> '63 BJ7
> HBJ7L/23582
> ahy3000@comcast.net
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