Go with the longest one. You need threads coming out the end to ensure
that you've got engagement (for that matter, some tech guys won't allow
closed acorns), and it makes it easier to fit different wheels, spacers,
whatever later. There's just no reason to fit a short stud other than
aesthetics. And if you're a racy dude--long studs look hotter anyway. (I
didn't mean that the way it sounds, but what the heck).
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Bartlett [mailto:billbartlett@homerebuilders.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 11:53 AM
To: Joe Curry; Gt6steve@aol.com
Cc: FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: GT6 Wheel studs
I just checked with Dave Bean and they said that they can install the 7/16
- 20 either 1" long or protruding 2.3 ". So it looks like the 7/16 is ok I
just need to figure on which stud length. Bill B
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:Spitlist@gte.net]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 2:43 PM
To: Gt6steve@aol.com
Cc: Bill Bartlett; FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: GT6 Wheel studs
Gt6steve@aol.com wrote:
>
> Bill,
> The alloy hubs will likely be drilled for the stock 3/8" studs so
> you'll have to bore them to take whatever studs you're using. The
> 7/16-20 upgrade is most likely a Chevy size. If not, look to use them
> as you can get a replacement stud at any tire store. I recommend the
> ARP studs but that's up to you. Steve
Steve (and all)
The stock hubs take the larger studs without modification so I don't know
why the alloy ones would need to be modified. The smaller studs have a
shank that is the same size as the TR6 studs. So it should not be
necessary to re-size them.
Joe (C)
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