You can get great black oxide studs at any parts store, 7/16 is nice. Make
sure you get them extra long so you can accommodate wheel spacers or
different kinds of wheels. May not look neat, but it sure is practical. I
use pretty chrome acorn-style lugnuts and grind the closed ends off
because the plain nut style ones are a little on the short side.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gt6steve@aol.com [mailto:Gt6steve@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2003 8:50 AM
To: billbartlett@homerebuilders.com
Cc: FOT@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: GT6 Wheel studs
Bill,
The alloy hubs will likely be drilled for the stock 3/8" studs so you'll
have
to bore them to take whatever studs you're using. The 7/16-20 upgrade is
most likely a Chevy size. If not, look to use them as you can get a
replacement stud at any tire store. I recommend the ARP studs but that's
up
to you.
Steve
<< Hello Gents,
I am going to go to aluminum hubs on my GT6+. Your previous dialog was
this
is a good thing and the 6lb savings on the front of the nose heavy car is
worth it. Ok - now the question is wheel studs. The car currently is set
up
with 7/16" studs with 20 threads per inch on 3 3/4 in centers. This is
true
for the rear as well and also coincides with my Super 7 front hubs so I
can
share wheels. Is this the good set up?
Thanks for your advice.
Also this car was set up with the original front suspension, except it
has
the lower A arms boxed and the top of the towers are welded to the roll
cage
that extends to the front of the car. The vertical link, steering arms,
spindle, bearings, ball joints are all original except the bushes are
urethane. So the jist of it is that the front suspension seems fairly
stock.
Is this the way to go?
Any and all advice would be appreciated.
Bill B
|