I used to make 7/16-20 studs for the stock Spit hubs from a Chevy part.
Needed to have the lip tapered to seat correctly and clear everything.
But they worked quite well. I still have all the fixtures to make them
if there is really a need.
Bob
Gt6steve@aol.com wrote:
> Bill,
> The alloy hubs will likely be drilled for the stock 3/8" studs so you'll have
> to bore them to take whatever studs you're using. The 7/16-20 upgrade is
> most likely a Chevy size. If not, look to use them as you can get a
> replacement stud at any tire store. I recommend the ARP studs but that's up
> to you.
> Steve
>
> << Hello Gents,
> I am going to go to aluminum hubs on my GT6+. Your previous dialog was this
> is a good thing and the 6lb savings on the front of the nose heavy car is
> worth it. Ok - now the question is wheel studs. The car currently is set up
> with 7/16" studs with 20 threads per inch on 3 3/4 in centers. This is true
> for the rear as well and also coincides with my Super 7 front hubs so I can
> share wheels. Is this the good set up?
> Thanks for your advice.
> Also this car was set up with the original front suspension, except it has
> the lower A arms boxed and the top of the towers are welded to the roll cage
> that extends to the front of the car. The vertical link, steering arms,
> spindle, bearings, ball joints are all original except the bushes are
> urethane. So the jist of it is that the front suspension seems fairly stock.
> Is this the way to go?
> Any and all advice would be appreciated.
> Bill B
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