Ahhhhhh!
It's the old no fuel to #1 and #2 trick eh!
Your diagnoses is spot on and methodical.
Gold star with oak leaves and cluster is your rank :-)
I would have a look at the gauze filter on the inlet of the offending
float bowl, maybe blocked?
Also check the float valve on that bowl the needle valve may be glued
closed.
Either or, you now know where the issue lies and have learned a few
things on the way;-)
Regards,
Graeme Suckling
http://tinyurl.com/6n5aza
Adelaide
South Australia.
On 14/12/2012 2:03 PM, Roy Haslett wrote:
> I have reset the points/timing. For others this is how I did it
> according to the manual and from others suggestions.
> I gapped the points at full opening to .019. I then, with the engine
> off, turned the crank til the pointer on the front cover points to 10
> BTDC with the rotor pointing at #1. This is per the manual. I then
> loosened the hold down screw on the distributor and turned it til the
> points just break (using a volt meter with light. when the light just
> comes on) Tighten down the hold down screw. replace rotor and cap,
> start car. fine adjust timing if needed by twisting distributor
> So my car still runs rough. I used a Uni Sync to adjust the carbs
> idle screw and balance the air flow.
> Car still runs rough. With the service screw turned up to idle the
> car at 2,000 I, one by one, pulled the plug wires. AHA! Plugs 4 and 3
> when pulled caused rougher idle. I checked spark from the plug wire.
> Good. Pulled wires off #2 and #1, NO CHANGE to how the car idles. I
> checked spark from the wires. Good. I pulled gas line off the carbs
> and turned the engine over, gas shoots out fine. So, What do I do
> now??? It appears an obvious fuel starvation to cylinders 1 and 2. I
> have not touched the fuel/air mixture screw on the bottom of either carb.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Graeme Suckling <graemes@internode.on.net>
> *To:* datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2012 2:21 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Roadsters] Setting ignition points on 67 1600
>
> For gapping the points, you have described the correct method, points
> on the peak of the cam.
> That will set the dwell, the number of degrees that the points are
> closed, which is independent of the ignition timing.
> You can static set the timing by rotating the engine to the number of
> degrees BTDC that is recommended and then rotating the dist. BODY to
> open the points. Try to use cylinder #1 on compression stroke for this
> exercise since that is the most convenient reference. Use either a 12V
> test lamp or Volt meter to determine exactly when the points open.
> Tighten the dist. clamping bolts and now you should be able to start
> the engine and fine tune the timing at the correct revs and deg. BTDC
> using a timing light.
> Make sure all the points mounting and electrical connection screws are
> tight so that the timing and spark are reliable.
> Sent from my desk top clunker since that is all I have :)
>
> Regards,
> Graeme Suckling
> http://tinyurl.com/6n5aza
> Adelaide
> South Australia.
>
> On 14/12/2012 8:24 AM, Roy Haslett wrote:
> > Hi All,
> > I want to know if I should be positioning the engine and/or
> > distributor at a particular position prior to gapping the points. I
> know that
> > I need to rotate the engine until the points are on the high part of
> one of
> > the lobes on the distributor, but where should the distributor be as
> we can
> > loosen the retaining screw and twist left or right to adjust. I am
> > experiencing a terrible running car with backfiring out the carbs
> and I think
> > I need to start over at the points.
> > Thanks
> > Roy
> > ________________________________________
> >
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