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Re: [Roadsters] Setting ignition points on 67 1600

To: Graeme Suckling <graemes@internode.on.net>, "datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Setting ignition points on 67 1600
From: Roy Haslett <hrhaslett@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2012 19:33:34 -0800 (PST)
Cc: Datsun Owners List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
References: <1355435676.53944.YahooMailNeo@web162003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <50CA54EA.2060609@internode.on.net>
I have reset the points/timing.  For others this is how I did it according to
the manual and from others suggestions.
I gapped the points at full opening to
.019.  I then, with the engine off, turned the crank til the pointer on the
front cover points to 10 BTDC with the rotor pointing at #1. This is per the
manual.  I then loosened the hold down screw on the distributor and turned it
til the points just break (using a volt meter with light.  when the light just
comes on) Tighten down the hold down screw.  replace rotor and cap, start
car.  fine adjust timing if needed by twisting distributor
So my car still
runs rough.  I used a Uni Sync to adjust the carbs idle screw and balance the
air flow.
Car still runs rough.  With the service screw turned up to idle the
car at 2,000 I, one by one, pulled the plug wires. AHA!  Plugs 4 and 3 when
pulled caused rougher idle.  I checked spark from the plug wire.  Good. 
Pulled wires off #2 and #1, NO CHANGE to how the car idles.  I checked spark
from the wires. Good.  I pulled gas line off the carbs and turned the engine
over, gas shoots out fine.  So, What do I do now???  It appears an obvious
fuel starvation to cylinders 1 and 2.  I have not touched the fuel/air mixture
screw on the bottom of either carb.





________________________________
From: Graeme Suckling <graemes@internode.on.net>
To:
datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2012 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Setting ignition points on 67 1600
 
For gapping the
points, you have described the correct method, points on the peak of the cam.
That will set the dwell, the number of degrees that the points are closed,
which is independent of the ignition timing.
You can static set the timing by
rotating the engine to the number of degrees BTDC that is recommended and then
rotating the dist. BODY to open the points. Try to use cylinder #1 on
compression stroke for this exercise since that is the most convenient
reference. Use either a 12V test lamp or Volt meter to determine exactly when
the points open.
Tighten the dist. clamping bolts and now you should be able
to start the engine and fine tune the timing at the correct revs and deg. BTDC
using a timing light.
Make sure all the points mounting and electrical
connection screws are tight so that the timing and spark are reliable.
Sent
from my desk top clunker since that is all I have :)

Regards,
Graeme Suckling
http://tinyurl.com/6n5aza
Adelaide
South Australia.

On 14/12/2012 8:24 AM,
Roy Haslett wrote:
> Hi All,
> I want to know if I should be positioning the
engine and/or
> distributor at a particular position prior to gapping the
points.  I know that
> I need to rotate the engine until the points are on the
high part of one of
> the lobes on the distributor, but where should the
distributor be as we can
> loosen the retaining screw and twist left or right
to adjust.  I am
> experiencing a terrible running car with backfiring out the
carbs and I think
> I need to start over at the points.
> Thanks
> Roy
>
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