Sent from my iPod
On Dec 10, 2012, at 7:54 AM, Gary McCormick <gkmcc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I had that same issue with a '72 510 I had in college -- only it died
> completely. Wire looked fine on the outside, with no damage to the
insulation,
> but was broken inside because it stuck up a bit and was whipped by the
rotor.
>
> Gary McCormick
>
> --- On Mon, 12/10/12, Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ES11)
<phillip.b.hall@nasa.gov>
> wrote:
>
> From: Hall, Phillip B. (MSFC-ES11) <phillip.b.hall@nasa.gov>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 1600 tuning issues
> To: "Roy Haslett" <hrhaslett@yahoo.com>, "Tim Putland"
<tputland@charter.net>,
> "Datsun-Roadsters" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, December 10, 2012, 4:23 AM
>
> Long shot, but I had bad running issues - I could get it to idle but when I
> reved it up, it would sputter badly then shut down. It was the condenser
> wire inside the dizzy. It looked fine but the wire strands were broken.
>
>
> On 12/9/12 10:21 PM, "Roy Haslett" <hrhaslett@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Sadly I am still in tuning hell. I have set the dwell to 52 degrees.
> Checked
>> all connections that they are clean and tight. When car ran it was rough
> but
>> I set the timing to 16 degrees at 600 rpm and verified the vacuum advance
> was
>> operating correctly and no leaks when revving engine. But, the car runs
> like
>> shit..super rough with the engine shaking like hell. Now, the car won't
> even
>> start?? Could I have some bad new iginition parts? Could my 6 month old
>> Diamond coil have failed? Previous to attempting this tune up the car ran
> a
>> little weird with some very slight backfire but it ran great on the
> highway.
>> I don't think its a carb thing. Valves were checked 3 times. I don't get
> it.
>> Thanks
>> Roy
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Tim
>> <tputland@charter.net>
>> To: datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net
>> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 1:22 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] 1600 tuning issues
>>
>> I have (as usual) nothing new to
>> add. But, I will echo what others have said as well as Paul below. And
also
>> add that my running issues got worse and worse on my tired 1600 as the
> exhaust
>> leak at the manifold got worse.
>>
>> Still waiting on my machinist to finish the
>> head on my stroker. One step forward, two steps back.....sigh
>>
>> tim
>>
>>
>> On Wed,
>> Nov 28, 2012 at 3:16 PM, Paul Kort wrote:
>>
>>> Even on the race R16s, spinning
>> up to 8000 rpms, we never had a timing
>>> chain jump.
>>>
>>> back to basics,
>> set the valve clearance, set the ignition timing, then
>>> work on the carbs.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>> Ohio
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 28, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Pete Peters
>> <ppeters914@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> According to Roy, the head was rebuilt
>> at 5k; the motor at 20k (was the
>>>> timing chain/gears replaced at that
>> time?). Engine was running fine up
>>>> until
>>>> a few hundred miles ago, then
>> slowly deteriorated.
>>>>
>>>> Wouldn't a timing chain jumping be instantly
>> noticeable? And, while
>>>> possible, has anyone experienced a 1600 timing chain
>> jumping? Isn't that
>>>> more likely in the OHC engines (U20, L-series)?
>> My money is on something more simple like floats and/or exhaust/vacuum
>> leaks.
>>>>
>>>> This has been a fun thread. Eagerly awaiting the resolution!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Pete
>>> ________________________________________
>> ________________________________________
>>
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>>
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> s
>> a.gov
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