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Re: Building an engine?

To: drlsmith@telus.net, datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Building an engine?
From: Keith0alan@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 09:51:35 EDT
Here is what I did on the R16 engine I am currently rebuilding. The head  had 
been shaved too many times so the pistons hit the head with no head gasket  
(the normal test for fit). I cleaned the head and pistons and put a thin film 
of  oil on the pistons. Laid the head on the engine with no head gasket and 
turned  the crank till the pistons just touched the head. Pulled the head and 
looked to  see where the oil transferred. Using the sandpaper flap wheel in the 
die grinder  I removed a small amount of material from the head where it 
touched. Cleaned  things up and put the head back on the engine and checked 
where it 
touched  again. After about 50 to 100 times the head perfectly matched the 
pistons (and I  added 3" to my arms). This restored the squish band area to 
where is was  supposed to be. When I measured the combustion chamber volumes 
they 
were within  1%, Lucky considering the shaving that had been done on this 
head. If they had  not been so close I would have removed material from the 
pocket 
area to even  them up. The final compression ratio ended up being just a 
little over the 9-1  stock ratio, about 9.3 as I recall. 
 
A proper squish band engine setup is very efficient. It allows higher CR  and 
better performance that more exotic things like the original hemi head. (the  
current "Hemi" is a registered trademark and has nothing to do with the  
combustion chamber shape. My bet is that it is a squish band engine.)
 
Enough rambling for now
 
keith williams
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/8/2006 12:06:00 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
drlsmith@telus.net writes:

Good  information for anyone building, or considering building, a  performance
engine.

Daryl
'66 R/G 1800cc Hot Rod   :-)


----- Original Message -----
From: Jim
To:  megasquirt-tuning@msefi.com
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 7:43  AM
Subject: How to tune accel param


A "quench" or "squish" area  is any area where a flat area on the
piston crown comes into very close  proximity to a matching flat area
of the cylinder head .

This area ,  in order to have the desired effect , must be VERY tight when
the piston is  at TDC , one rule of thumb used goes like this :

When remachining your  engine block you want to "deck" the block
(I think you may call it skimming  ??) this is when you put the block in a
holding fixture which uses an  expandable steel pipe that runs through all
of the Main Bearing bores and  then machining the head gasket surfaces to
insure that they are square and  equidistant from the main bearing bores .
Before performing this operation  the pistons and connecting rods and
crankshaft are carefully measured so  that the amount of material to be
removed from the head gasket surface can  be calculated .
The end result is that the piston crowns will be perfectly  flush with the
head gasket surface at TDC .
This results in the ONLY  clearance between the piston and cylinder head
being the compressed  thickness of the head gasket .
This is usually about .040 inches or 1mm ,  this is just approaching the
ideal clearance , ideal would be about half of  that measurement but would
result in too much risk of the piston contacting  the head at high rpm .
Head gasket manufacturers sometimes provide this  compressed thickness
measurement right on the package , if they don't thier  website or a phone
call will get you the specs. .
Another note of  interest , sometimes "Steel Shim" head gaskets are
availible for your  engine , the compressed thickness of these gaskets are
about half that of  "composition" style gaskets , this may allow you to
reduce your quench  clearance without machine work .

Here is a very good article I found  with a quick Google search ,
it generally understates the advantages that I  have seen  .

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/94138/

And while it  is referencing a Chevy V-8 , the principles apply to all  
engines
.




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