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Re[2]: Dwell vs Gap

To: Robert.Long@CSDInc.com,
Subject: Re[2]: Dwell vs Gap
From: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 11:25:23 -0700
Or severe pitting in the points or wear on the rubbing block, or slop in 
the breaker plate. For $5 to $8 you might as well replace the points and 
re-gap (cheapest fix). Swapping to a rebuilt re-curved distributor fixes a 
lot of ills (more expensive fix), and as others mentioned is usually all 
prepped for simply dropping in.

Fred - So.SF

_________________________ Reply Separator ________________________
>Subject: RE: Dwell vs Gap
>Author:  "Brian Hollands" <bholland@hayes.ds.adp.com>
>Date:    7/20/2001 2:05 PM
>
>The only thing I can think of that might cause the dwell to be correct 
>and the gap to be wrong is slop in the distributor shaft or the wrong 
>set of points.  If the dwell is correct and the car runs well, I 
>wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
>Brian
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>Dear List,
>
>I was checking out the dwell on my 67.5 1600 last night.  It seems that 
>with the points gapped to .021", the dwell was around 34 degrees.  To 
>get the dwell to 50 degrees, the gap was around .015".  From reading 
>other posts, I should rely on the dwell, not the gap, correct?  Does 
>this discrepency mean anything?
>
>Thanks again...Robert - 67.5 1600 - ABQ

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